Friday, October 27, 2006
21/10 Cairo Chaos
Not sure where to start today....So much noise, confusion, assulting smells. The crush of people, the constant touting and constant un-needed attention from Egyptian men.
A few thoughts...if Egyptian society is moderate toward momen, it is going to get interesting the further East I go. It is a pity because I think in general they are kind, friendly people. But because you are constantly accosted by someone trying to sell you something, or trying to get you to do what they want; you stop being friendly to 'hello' or 'can I help you' and look cold and snootie. Which we're not...I feel like a walking $ note.
Driving out to the pyramids this afternoon was an experience all of its own. I've not been but I'm sure it rivals Deli or Bankok. I've never seen such a heaving, seething, mass of honking metal. A river of cars, a soup of exhaust.
Sensory overload, or Pharoah Phobia this morning. The Egyptian Antiquities museum is like a warehouse, crammed to overflowing with treasures. Very little is presented properly and without a guide book or guide you'd miss much of the good stuff. A+ Lonely Planet. The first thing that struck me was how small the ancient Egyptians were. About my height. The tallest ruler they have found was 185cm. Most died between 25-45yo. Even as the ruling class with the best diet and health care, 65 was ancient. Seeing the mummies reinforced this. Even compensating that they have shrunk. The other thing was, realising Cairo is a modern capital, that these people were Sudanese and Etheopian - soot black. And the blacker the better - they belived for fertility. Now I know the Christians have been bleaching Christ for centuries but I've never seen once in history book or movie have I seen Europeans depict ancient Egypians as black Africans...I shuold have worked this out for myself but sometimes you miss the obvious. White supremists will never accept the ruling civilisation of all time was African.
These people mummified their pets. It was touching to see dogs, cats, monkeys and horses mummified and buried in their own temples. It makes me realise they are real people, with emotions and normal family lives. The monkey mummy is so real...you could pick it up and hug it...
This museum is like the Louvre in that it starts to get too much. It is very nice when you leave to spend half an hour relaxing your eyes and legs in the garden out the front. Especially as there are very few green spaces in Cairo. It's funny but I didn't feel this civilisation was obscene in its use of wealth. Is it because it is so ancient and doesn't actually exisit today? That so much has been plundered? That where it is presented, and the society that holds these relics, is so poor today? I really don't know.
I met a Uraguan lady called Claudia at the museum and we linked up for a couple of hours and wandered the city streets together. Found a couple of old colonial hotels and checked out the architecture. Very Laurence of Arabia.
Not sure where to start today....So much noise, confusion, assulting smells. The crush of people, the constant touting and constant un-needed attention from Egyptian men.
A few thoughts...if Egyptian society is moderate toward momen, it is going to get interesting the further East I go. It is a pity because I think in general they are kind, friendly people. But because you are constantly accosted by someone trying to sell you something, or trying to get you to do what they want; you stop being friendly to 'hello' or 'can I help you' and look cold and snootie. Which we're not...I feel like a walking $ note.
Driving out to the pyramids this afternoon was an experience all of its own. I've not been but I'm sure it rivals Deli or Bankok. I've never seen such a heaving, seething, mass of honking metal. A river of cars, a soup of exhaust.
Misjudged Ramadan festivities and arrived late at the Pyramids. So just went to the sound and light show. The show was pretty retro, left over from the 70's. But it was pretty special to be out in the desert at night, with a cool breeze sneaking across the sand.
Sensory overload, or Pharoah Phobia this morning. The Egyptian Antiquities museum is like a warehouse, crammed to overflowing with treasures. Very little is presented properly and without a guide book or guide you'd miss much of the good stuff. A+ Lonely Planet. The first thing that struck me was how small the ancient Egyptians were. About my height. The tallest ruler they have found was 185cm. Most died between 25-45yo. Even as the ruling class with the best diet and health care, 65 was ancient. Seeing the mummies reinforced this. Even compensating that they have shrunk. The other thing was, realising Cairo is a modern capital, that these people were Sudanese and Etheopian - soot black. And the blacker the better - they belived for fertility. Now I know the Christians have been bleaching Christ for centuries but I've never seen once in history book or movie have I seen Europeans depict ancient Egypians as black Africans...I shuold have worked this out for myself but sometimes you miss the obvious. White supremists will never accept the ruling civilisation of all time was African.
These people mummified their pets. It was touching to see dogs, cats, monkeys and horses mummified and buried in their own temples. It makes me realise they are real people, with emotions and normal family lives. The monkey mummy is so real...you could pick it up and hug it...
This museum is like the Louvre in that it starts to get too much. It is very nice when you leave to spend half an hour relaxing your eyes and legs in the garden out the front. Especially as there are very few green spaces in Cairo. It's funny but I didn't feel this civilisation was obscene in its use of wealth. Is it because it is so ancient and doesn't actually exisit today? That so much has been plundered? That where it is presented, and the society that holds these relics, is so poor today? I really don't know.
I met a Uraguan lady called Claudia at the museum and we linked up for a couple of hours and wandered the city streets together. Found a couple of old colonial hotels and checked out the architecture. Very Laurence of Arabia.
# posted by The Essence of Good Taste @ 1:56 PM 
