Sunday, October 01, 2006
I'm giving it my best shot to catch up and not get myself or my loyal readers confused.
Today is 1 October and it's 10 days since I last updated. Sorry but hard to get airtime.
So...last time we met I had just walked Hadrians Wall (well in fact I was in Glasgow waiting for a bus to Loch Lamond but I'll go back to Hadrian briefly...)
mmm...memory clunking over...
Yes Friday 22 September
Left Greenhead this morning after the third night within Britain sharing a room with a snorer!!!! The same old woman keeps turning up on my second night places, ends up in my dorm and snores. Well, this time I foiled her - I stuffed my ears with cotton wool (thanks Tammy your first aid supplies came in handy) - and I checked her itinerary at breakfast this morning and thank heaven she is heading home now so I won't have her sharing again.
Most of today I spent travelling - Greenhead to Carlisle on the bus, missed the train to Glasgow but 20 seconds (literally) so sat in the station doing some forward planning until the next. Got in to Glasgow (have now crossed the border in to Scotland - pretty scenery from the train window - which my poor memory can not remember at present - didn't take any pictures from the train so it was probably a grey day and not much good for photos). Had the afternoon to wait for the next bus to Balloch at the head of Loch Lomond (pronounced Low-Mond by the locals) so got on to some cheap email - which is where I left you last...
The bus to Loch Lomond (once it got out of Glasgow) was very 'highlandy'. This Loch is the weekend playground for the Glaswegans and now I'm starting to meet the Scots - the strong accent is taking over all the voices I hear. In fact sometimes I had to ask them to slow down so I could understand them...(not such a problem once I got out of the Glasgow catchment later).
Little note here - as at 1 October - the most friendly helpful people I have met throughout Britain have been the bus drivers. 12 out of 10! Fantastic people. They go out of their way to help, are friendly and cheerful, and never let you miss your stop. I don't know if I'd be that nice if I had to drive 12 hour shifts on the roads they drive. Contrary to the stereotype Britain's roads are not good. Even their motorways are no better than ours and most of the time they are driving regional roads narrower than ours.
Back to 22/9. Got into my hostel (bus stopped at the door) but the village is about 40min walk.mmm...But...what a hostel. Took more photos to prove it! A stately home pretty close to being a castle. Very Scottish. I really feel like I'm in Scotland. Big stone fireplace in th eentry hall. Stags on the walls. Huge timber staircase, stained glass, banquetting hall, turrents, etc. Pitty the bloody thing's falling down. YHA were donated a lot of these properties in bequests but in modern times have no money for upkeep and they are deteriorating fast. A lot of the stained glass here is broken. Rooms are shut off because the floors are not sound. The beautiful inlay work on the doors, mantles, etc is damaged. The huge conservatory is closed cause the roof leaks and is wrecking the interior, etc. This place isn't on the 'for sale' list but needs a major injection of funds - probably cost £2m to restore and when you're selling beds for £15 a night hard to justify. Can see all the good atmospheric hostels ending up boutique hotels for £150 night...
Saturday 23 September 2006
This morning is a glorious day, clear and sunny. Again, I am so lucky. Caught the bus early this morning down the road a couple of stops to Inverbeg (there seems to be lots of Inver...s in Scotland) and caught a funny little ferry across the Loch to Rowadenan which is not much more than the head of the walking trails up Ben Lomond. Decided not to tackle 1000m before lunch and took myself on a short 5km walk along the Loch. Oh, how peaceful and beautiful. Because this side of the lake doesn't have easy access (there is a road but it's small and goes no-where) it is QUIET. Pine forests growing down to the Loch edge, small 'brooks' and 'streams' popping up through the pine needles and heather. Light wind sneaking through the trees so you look over your shoulder wondering if that's someone walking toward you. There are fiairies here...I sat on rock on the water's edge and contemplated life for about an hour, watching small fishing and pleasure boats out on the Loch, listening to sea birds and woodland birds whose calls were familiar from TV but I don't know what they are. Smelt wood smoke at one stage and noticed a bush camp of a family just having a quiet weekend themselves.
It clouded over and was getting cold so I walked back to the pub (collected a coles bag full of rubbish on the way too - obviously Glasgow impacts the place - there are lazy people everywhere - note from Oct - this was the worst rubbish I've seen - everywhere else has been clean as). The sun was out again but the time I got to the pub and I decided to shout myself lunch. Chatted to some lovely Scots in th ebeer garden who were all doing the same as me - enjoying the sun and hiding from a football game on the box - Rangers vs Celtic (Celtic won 2-0).
The funny thing was, a group of men who had been playing Vikings in the woods came in for the game. So there were 10 or so blokes cheering madly like the rest - dressed in woollen dresses and leather boots strapped on with thongs, with swords and clubs. Wouldn't have liked to see the result if Rangers had won!!
Wandered down to catch the ferry after the game and sat on the stern of the boat as it chugged back to civilisation. Later that afternoon as I walked a million miles to and from the village for supplies, I thought the better option may have been to stay at the pub til the last ferry - but then I would have been rather hungry that night as there was no-where to buy food - this YHA is like Oz - you do your own or not at all.
PS Got some lovely shots of mushrooms - just like out of Alice in Wonderland - even the red one with white spots!
Sunday 24 September 2006
Well Sunday is the one day of the week that public transport is very average and not a lot happens once you're out of the cities (which I am now).
The plan was to catch the bus to Fort William and then get the train to Mallaig. But...I missed the bus! Oops! It was pouring with rain (see what I mean about luck - the day before when I need it,is one of the best days, and on the travel day when weather is not important it rains - I send my thanks to mother nature :))
So, I hailed the next bus to come by and asked how far he could get me. Well half way to Fort William is better than not at all so I got on and flew by the seat of my pants...What a great day it turned out!
The bus dropped me in this little village called Tyndrum and I sat in the hikers cafe for the next 2 1/2 hours waiting for a train to Fort William. Remember, it is pouring, and I mean pouring. This village it seems, is a major calling port for hikers, push bikers and motor bikers on their weekend trips to Fort William from Glasgow. Every one of them came in to dry out (read steam) and fill up on fish dinners. A steady stream of people came in, wrung out their gloves, coats, etc on the floor, ate, talked and moved on. And the cafe staff constantly walked around clearing not just plates but mopping the floor of mud and water. I talked to all manner of travellers. And this time I think they had well and truely earned their fat intake.
And it got better. I hiked up the hill to the train station (the west bound train went from UPPER Tyndrum station and the Glasgow train went from LOWER Tyndrum - worked off about 10 chips). And found out once on this little rail motor that the route was one of the most scenic in Scotland. I knew from Fort William to Mallaig was in the top 10 but it seems this earlier leg is part of the same scenic route. FANTASTIC. Even in the rain, wow. Mountains, streams, lochs, forests, black peat bogs, moor country - everthing in one journey. Scotland gets better and better...And then from Fort William I was on the Hogwarts Express.
Yes, I have photos to prove it. The piece of the movie when the train takes them through the night over the huge viaduct, through the forest and mountain passes - is REAL! And even in the rain amazingly scenic and atmospheric. Unfortunately I was on a diesel but there are two steam trains running the route too.
Arrived in Mallaig on the coast. Cute little fishing village where the ferry departs for Skye. Did a quick lap of the village, got a good nights sleep, and was on the 9am ferry in the morning. Lovely clean, CENTRAL hostel tonight.
As you can see the itinerary has changed a bit. No Oban, no Mull. All got too difficult and if you read on you will see the itinerary changes some more...
Today is 1 October and it's 10 days since I last updated. Sorry but hard to get airtime.
So...last time we met I had just walked Hadrians Wall (well in fact I was in Glasgow waiting for a bus to Loch Lamond but I'll go back to Hadrian briefly...)
mmm...memory clunking over...
Yes Friday 22 September
Left Greenhead this morning after the third night within Britain sharing a room with a snorer!!!! The same old woman keeps turning up on my second night places, ends up in my dorm and snores. Well, this time I foiled her - I stuffed my ears with cotton wool (thanks Tammy your first aid supplies came in handy) - and I checked her itinerary at breakfast this morning and thank heaven she is heading home now so I won't have her sharing again.
Most of today I spent travelling - Greenhead to Carlisle on the bus, missed the train to Glasgow but 20 seconds (literally) so sat in the station doing some forward planning until the next. Got in to Glasgow (have now crossed the border in to Scotland - pretty scenery from the train window - which my poor memory can not remember at present - didn't take any pictures from the train so it was probably a grey day and not much good for photos). Had the afternoon to wait for the next bus to Balloch at the head of Loch Lomond (pronounced Low-Mond by the locals) so got on to some cheap email - which is where I left you last...
The bus to Loch Lomond (once it got out of Glasgow) was very 'highlandy'. This Loch is the weekend playground for the Glaswegans and now I'm starting to meet the Scots - the strong accent is taking over all the voices I hear. In fact sometimes I had to ask them to slow down so I could understand them...(not such a problem once I got out of the Glasgow catchment later).
Little note here - as at 1 October - the most friendly helpful people I have met throughout Britain have been the bus drivers. 12 out of 10! Fantastic people. They go out of their way to help, are friendly and cheerful, and never let you miss your stop. I don't know if I'd be that nice if I had to drive 12 hour shifts on the roads they drive. Contrary to the stereotype Britain's roads are not good. Even their motorways are no better than ours and most of the time they are driving regional roads narrower than ours.
Back to 22/9. Got into my hostel (bus stopped at the door) but the village is about 40min walk.mmm...But...what a hostel. Took more photos to prove it! A stately home pretty close to being a castle. Very Scottish. I really feel like I'm in Scotland. Big stone fireplace in th eentry hall. Stags on the walls. Huge timber staircase, stained glass, banquetting hall, turrents, etc. Pitty the bloody thing's falling down. YHA were donated a lot of these properties in bequests but in modern times have no money for upkeep and they are deteriorating fast. A lot of the stained glass here is broken. Rooms are shut off because the floors are not sound. The beautiful inlay work on the doors, mantles, etc is damaged. The huge conservatory is closed cause the roof leaks and is wrecking the interior, etc. This place isn't on the 'for sale' list but needs a major injection of funds - probably cost £2m to restore and when you're selling beds for £15 a night hard to justify. Can see all the good atmospheric hostels ending up boutique hotels for £150 night...
Saturday 23 September 2006
This morning is a glorious day, clear and sunny. Again, I am so lucky. Caught the bus early this morning down the road a couple of stops to Inverbeg (there seems to be lots of Inver...s in Scotland) and caught a funny little ferry across the Loch to Rowadenan which is not much more than the head of the walking trails up Ben Lomond. Decided not to tackle 1000m before lunch and took myself on a short 5km walk along the Loch. Oh, how peaceful and beautiful. Because this side of the lake doesn't have easy access (there is a road but it's small and goes no-where) it is QUIET. Pine forests growing down to the Loch edge, small 'brooks' and 'streams' popping up through the pine needles and heather. Light wind sneaking through the trees so you look over your shoulder wondering if that's someone walking toward you. There are fiairies here...I sat on rock on the water's edge and contemplated life for about an hour, watching small fishing and pleasure boats out on the Loch, listening to sea birds and woodland birds whose calls were familiar from TV but I don't know what they are. Smelt wood smoke at one stage and noticed a bush camp of a family just having a quiet weekend themselves.
It clouded over and was getting cold so I walked back to the pub (collected a coles bag full of rubbish on the way too - obviously Glasgow impacts the place - there are lazy people everywhere - note from Oct - this was the worst rubbish I've seen - everywhere else has been clean as). The sun was out again but the time I got to the pub and I decided to shout myself lunch. Chatted to some lovely Scots in th ebeer garden who were all doing the same as me - enjoying the sun and hiding from a football game on the box - Rangers vs Celtic (Celtic won 2-0).
The funny thing was, a group of men who had been playing Vikings in the woods came in for the game. So there were 10 or so blokes cheering madly like the rest - dressed in woollen dresses and leather boots strapped on with thongs, with swords and clubs. Wouldn't have liked to see the result if Rangers had won!!
Wandered down to catch the ferry after the game and sat on the stern of the boat as it chugged back to civilisation. Later that afternoon as I walked a million miles to and from the village for supplies, I thought the better option may have been to stay at the pub til the last ferry - but then I would have been rather hungry that night as there was no-where to buy food - this YHA is like Oz - you do your own or not at all.
PS Got some lovely shots of mushrooms - just like out of Alice in Wonderland - even the red one with white spots!
Sunday 24 September 2006
Well Sunday is the one day of the week that public transport is very average and not a lot happens once you're out of the cities (which I am now).
The plan was to catch the bus to Fort William and then get the train to Mallaig. But...I missed the bus! Oops! It was pouring with rain (see what I mean about luck - the day before when I need it,is one of the best days, and on the travel day when weather is not important it rains - I send my thanks to mother nature :))
So, I hailed the next bus to come by and asked how far he could get me. Well half way to Fort William is better than not at all so I got on and flew by the seat of my pants...What a great day it turned out!
The bus dropped me in this little village called Tyndrum and I sat in the hikers cafe for the next 2 1/2 hours waiting for a train to Fort William. Remember, it is pouring, and I mean pouring. This village it seems, is a major calling port for hikers, push bikers and motor bikers on their weekend trips to Fort William from Glasgow. Every one of them came in to dry out (read steam) and fill up on fish dinners. A steady stream of people came in, wrung out their gloves, coats, etc on the floor, ate, talked and moved on. And the cafe staff constantly walked around clearing not just plates but mopping the floor of mud and water. I talked to all manner of travellers. And this time I think they had well and truely earned their fat intake.
And it got better. I hiked up the hill to the train station (the west bound train went from UPPER Tyndrum station and the Glasgow train went from LOWER Tyndrum - worked off about 10 chips). And found out once on this little rail motor that the route was one of the most scenic in Scotland. I knew from Fort William to Mallaig was in the top 10 but it seems this earlier leg is part of the same scenic route. FANTASTIC. Even in the rain, wow. Mountains, streams, lochs, forests, black peat bogs, moor country - everthing in one journey. Scotland gets better and better...And then from Fort William I was on the Hogwarts Express.
Yes, I have photos to prove it. The piece of the movie when the train takes them through the night over the huge viaduct, through the forest and mountain passes - is REAL! And even in the rain amazingly scenic and atmospheric. Unfortunately I was on a diesel but there are two steam trains running the route too.
Arrived in Mallaig on the coast. Cute little fishing village where the ferry departs for Skye. Did a quick lap of the village, got a good nights sleep, and was on the 9am ferry in the morning. Lovely clean, CENTRAL hostel tonight.
As you can see the itinerary has changed a bit. No Oban, no Mull. All got too difficult and if you read on you will see the itinerary changes some more...
# posted by The Essence of Good Taste @ 12:38 PM 
