Friday, November 10, 2006
6-7/11 Damascus UPDATE
The Souk (or market) HEAVEN. Tried fresh roasted watermelon seeds. Absolutely delicious. Cooked in the big drums like the Brits do horse chestnuts; with oil - probably palm or vegetable, but we could use olive oil and a fry pan; Eat hot! Fantastic! The locals break the kernal out of the seed but I thought they were great whole.
Got mixed nuts and dried fruit; glacied fruit and Syrian chocolates. So fresh. Found those fat double salted roasted pistacios again...mmm...
Stopped at a mosaic box factory and watched them making them. They cut 14" long thin strips of timber into the shapes they need for the pattern, then bind them together into a tight cylinder. This is then soaked in glue. When it is dry further cut strips are bound until it is the correct size for the piece they are creating. The resulting block is then shaved through a saw and the resulting veneers glued to the bloxes, trays, etc. Any mother of pearl is then inlaid and the whole lot sealed. Much easier to show the photos when I get home.
This souk is the first time I have actually shopped since I left home. Got some great pressies. The quality of gear here is amazing. I've dropped the idea of moving to France. Now I'm learning Arabic and starting an import business from Syria. 2 visits a year, filling a container each time with homewares. Retail BNE and CNS.
Shopped...Felt like a kid in a lolly shop. Such a great day. Confident, happy, fun. Bargained like an old hand. Smiled at everyone. up and down the alleys dodging crowds and trollies laden with wares. Got some great bargains. It's like HK 20 years ago. Everyone was so genuinely friendly, helpful, cheeky. No sneaks, or dishonest traders (that I saw). Great people. Women bargaining for fabrics, bridal ware, linen, clothes, intimates, you name it...They fingered and commented on the things I was considering. Locals shoo here. Tourists were rare. Saw only one group all day and two independent travellers while I was trawling the markets. Happy, happy, happy...
In the market I also visited a Khan...where the traders used to live when selling their wares in the souk. Many are still used in this way. They stored their stock, stabled their animals, set up their families, there would be a hammam (bath house), a mosque, a central courtyard with a fountain. All tucked away behind the souk streets. Somewhere to retreat and relax when not trading. They would also invite important clients to the courtyard for entertainment.
Visited an Ottoman period Damascan home. The most amazing carving on every surface. The doors, walls, ceilings, all carved or inlaid and painted the most amazing colours. All geometric, hanging light fittings and soft rich cushions on intricate carved timber furniture. Again, the photos are the only way to demonstrate it...
Visited the Greek Orthadox church of St Paul - where he was reputedly lowered by basket over the Damascan city walls to escape the Jews after his conversion to Christianity. Also visited a Sheite mosque - amazingly decorated with mirrored tiles and chandaliers. All glitter and reflection - very ostentacious compared to the Sunni mosques. We looked like a coven of witches as this sect is much more conservative and we women had to wear a black hooded robe into the mosque not just be covered by our own clothes/scarves. To complete the religious trio of visits we also visited the Umayyad Sunni mosque which is considered the 4th most important mosque in the middle east. A huge complex using the earlier Byzantine church as 25% of it's floor area. The nave of the Byzantine church is now the main prayer hall. Beautiful blue mosaics are used throughout - especially in the large central courtyard. The minnerets are recycled bell towers from the church too.
Dinner tonight was at a restaurant called AlJabri - in an old house with courtyard and fountain from the early 1700's. Restored. Grapevines, painted arches, atmosphere in bucketloads.
The Souk (or market) HEAVEN. Tried fresh roasted watermelon seeds. Absolutely delicious. Cooked in the big drums like the Brits do horse chestnuts; with oil - probably palm or vegetable, but we could use olive oil and a fry pan; Eat hot! Fantastic! The locals break the kernal out of the seed but I thought they were great whole.
Got mixed nuts and dried fruit; glacied fruit and Syrian chocolates. So fresh. Found those fat double salted roasted pistacios again...mmm...
Stopped at a mosaic box factory and watched them making them. They cut 14" long thin strips of timber into the shapes they need for the pattern, then bind them together into a tight cylinder. This is then soaked in glue. When it is dry further cut strips are bound until it is the correct size for the piece they are creating. The resulting block is then shaved through a saw and the resulting veneers glued to the bloxes, trays, etc. Any mother of pearl is then inlaid and the whole lot sealed. Much easier to show the photos when I get home.
This souk is the first time I have actually shopped since I left home. Got some great pressies. The quality of gear here is amazing. I've dropped the idea of moving to France. Now I'm learning Arabic and starting an import business from Syria. 2 visits a year, filling a container each time with homewares. Retail BNE and CNS.
Shopped...Felt like a kid in a lolly shop. Such a great day. Confident, happy, fun. Bargained like an old hand. Smiled at everyone. up and down the alleys dodging crowds and trollies laden with wares. Got some great bargains. It's like HK 20 years ago. Everyone was so genuinely friendly, helpful, cheeky. No sneaks, or dishonest traders (that I saw). Great people. Women bargaining for fabrics, bridal ware, linen, clothes, intimates, you name it...They fingered and commented on the things I was considering. Locals shoo here. Tourists were rare. Saw only one group all day and two independent travellers while I was trawling the markets. Happy, happy, happy...
In the market I also visited a Khan...where the traders used to live when selling their wares in the souk. Many are still used in this way. They stored their stock, stabled their animals, set up their families, there would be a hammam (bath house), a mosque, a central courtyard with a fountain. All tucked away behind the souk streets. Somewhere to retreat and relax when not trading. They would also invite important clients to the courtyard for entertainment.
Visited an Ottoman period Damascan home. The most amazing carving on every surface. The doors, walls, ceilings, all carved or inlaid and painted the most amazing colours. All geometric, hanging light fittings and soft rich cushions on intricate carved timber furniture. Again, the photos are the only way to demonstrate it...
Visited the Greek Orthadox church of St Paul - where he was reputedly lowered by basket over the Damascan city walls to escape the Jews after his conversion to Christianity. Also visited a Sheite mosque - amazingly decorated with mirrored tiles and chandaliers. All glitter and reflection - very ostentacious compared to the Sunni mosques. We looked like a coven of witches as this sect is much more conservative and we women had to wear a black hooded robe into the mosque not just be covered by our own clothes/scarves. To complete the religious trio of visits we also visited the Umayyad Sunni mosque which is considered the 4th most important mosque in the middle east. A huge complex using the earlier Byzantine church as 25% of it's floor area. The nave of the Byzantine church is now the main prayer hall. Beautiful blue mosaics are used throughout - especially in the large central courtyard. The minnerets are recycled bell towers from the church too.
Dinner tonight was at a restaurant called AlJabri - in an old house with courtyard and fountain from the early 1700's. Restored. Grapevines, painted arches, atmosphere in bucketloads.
# posted by The Essence of Good Taste @ 1:54 PM 
