Monday, November 13, 2006
8-9 Nov Damascus to Palmyra by public bus.
The Syrian version of Greyhound. 3hrs across the desert highway (cool wind in my hair...not). Very empty. Seeing the cars and building styles, I think there must have been Russian money here at some time. The sight that stuck in my mind - as we came over a sand hill, the highway stretched away to the horizon and to the left and right there were empty sand dunes and flat sandy country of one tone - a dull sandy grey. Empty, except for one large but dwarfed bedouin tent. Alone and stoic in the landscape. A small herd of sheep was being watched by a woman and child and a man was tending a pump by a well. The sun was bright but cold and wind blew sand across the scene. In this one striking moment I understood why family is everything here. Without family you do not exist.
Palmyra has 50,000 residents in summer, swelling to 150,000 in winter when the Bedouin come in from the desert. It is a funny looking town, small and sprawling. Tourism is the main industry but they are struggling due to recent wars and poor business skills. Many families think if they set up a store or build a hotel there will be enough people come to share (heard that before my tourism marketing friends...). It is a very young town with many very young children in the street. It is also the largest oasis I have seen. Acres of date palms, olives & eucalypts in an arc around the city. The built environment itself is very dry. Home gardens and the exteriors of buildings, like everywhere else, are not valued.
Palmyra has many, many, classic cars - mostly mercedes and peugeots - like being in a time warp from the early '60s. They are incredibly battered and have fitted interiors like presian harems - all tassles and velour. But they keep driving. They also drive these amazing three wheeled trucks based on a motorcycle chassis. They have a cab built over the front seat and handle bars that carris 3 people and then the back whell is converted into a tricycle with a ute back - laden with goods. They are painted and decorated like a gypsy caravan (so are most of the trucks and buses). Considering the engine size and load, they are incredible workhorses.
The ancient city of Palmyra dating from approx 2500BC is fascinating. The remains excavated and restored for viewing date from 1-3AD. With the city being continuously occupied until the 1930's (when the people were rehoused in the new city) it has seen many changes, recycling and reuses over history - Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, Christian, Muslim - practical and political. But even the early city shows itself to be uniquely Palmerian as the architects and buildrs had freedom of expression from their masters and were influenced by many styles around them including Greek and Nebatian. It was a huge trading city and many records of goods traded and taxes were found on the site as well as mummies. But interestingly not treasures - these were all removed or plundered earlier.
It has got really cold again, with freezing wind off the desert. Beanie, gloves, even the thermal legs today!
Caught a public minivan to Al-Hosn thisafternoon. Passed within 1km of the Lebanon border and can see the Lebonese mountains as a backdrop. Overnight at Crac Des Chevaliers - great shots of the castle at sunset.
FOOD NOTE: try deep fried egg plant chips and cauliflower roasted in garic and olive oil...
The Syrian version of Greyhound. 3hrs across the desert highway (cool wind in my hair...not). Very empty. Seeing the cars and building styles, I think there must have been Russian money here at some time. The sight that stuck in my mind - as we came over a sand hill, the highway stretched away to the horizon and to the left and right there were empty sand dunes and flat sandy country of one tone - a dull sandy grey. Empty, except for one large but dwarfed bedouin tent. Alone and stoic in the landscape. A small herd of sheep was being watched by a woman and child and a man was tending a pump by a well. The sun was bright but cold and wind blew sand across the scene. In this one striking moment I understood why family is everything here. Without family you do not exist.
Palmyra has 50,000 residents in summer, swelling to 150,000 in winter when the Bedouin come in from the desert. It is a funny looking town, small and sprawling. Tourism is the main industry but they are struggling due to recent wars and poor business skills. Many families think if they set up a store or build a hotel there will be enough people come to share (heard that before my tourism marketing friends...). It is a very young town with many very young children in the street. It is also the largest oasis I have seen. Acres of date palms, olives & eucalypts in an arc around the city. The built environment itself is very dry. Home gardens and the exteriors of buildings, like everywhere else, are not valued.
Palmyra has many, many, classic cars - mostly mercedes and peugeots - like being in a time warp from the early '60s. They are incredibly battered and have fitted interiors like presian harems - all tassles and velour. But they keep driving. They also drive these amazing three wheeled trucks based on a motorcycle chassis. They have a cab built over the front seat and handle bars that carris 3 people and then the back whell is converted into a tricycle with a ute back - laden with goods. They are painted and decorated like a gypsy caravan (so are most of the trucks and buses). Considering the engine size and load, they are incredible workhorses.
The ancient city of Palmyra dating from approx 2500BC is fascinating. The remains excavated and restored for viewing date from 1-3AD. With the city being continuously occupied until the 1930's (when the people were rehoused in the new city) it has seen many changes, recycling and reuses over history - Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, Christian, Muslim - practical and political. But even the early city shows itself to be uniquely Palmerian as the architects and buildrs had freedom of expression from their masters and were influenced by many styles around them including Greek and Nebatian. It was a huge trading city and many records of goods traded and taxes were found on the site as well as mummies. But interestingly not treasures - these were all removed or plundered earlier.
It has got really cold again, with freezing wind off the desert. Beanie, gloves, even the thermal legs today!
Caught a public minivan to Al-Hosn thisafternoon. Passed within 1km of the Lebanon border and can see the Lebonese mountains as a backdrop. Overnight at Crac Des Chevaliers - great shots of the castle at sunset.
FOOD NOTE: try deep fried egg plant chips and cauliflower roasted in garic and olive oil...
# posted by The Essence of Good Taste @ 12:31 AM 
