Friday, December 22, 2006
1 December 2006 Exploring Lima
Got out on my own today to explore Lima city. Andrew and Paola live in Miraflores which is one of the top two suburbs of Lima (the other one is Baranco - more night clubs here) and out of town on the beach. Miraflores is very salubrious (although I'm sure there are bits far less so). Most of the big chain hotels are here. Their unit is one block back from the water on top of the cliffs and there is a view of the ocean from the kitchen windows and the room I am in. We are only one block from the posh shopping complex Larco Mar - a bit like the big 'be seen' places at Noosa. There is also a very nice square with church and gardens in Miraflores central - where the tourists shop and Pizza Alley and the restaurant strip is. Explored this another day but mention it here for ease. I also went for a cliff top walk and watched the paragliders jump off the cliffs and cruise past the diners at Larco Mar.
Matthew and I had great games in the unit chasing the paragliders from window to window as they went past at our 6th floor height.
Paola and Andrew are very protective of me and worry about my safety in Lima. Especially when out alone. While I am very aware Lima is full of seedy elements and I have to be careful; it is no more dangerous than any other developing nation I have visited. In hindsight I can say this is true. Cairo, Istanbul, London and Paris are all dangerous places where you have to be careful and always 100% aware of your surroundings. Plenty of poor who need to make a living of those who have more...
Anyway, I had a great day exploring...
Lima city, there is so much to see and I just went to a few of the many things on offer:
Plaza de Armas, the main square and centre of the old city includes:
The Cathedral, very Catholic -ie. Spanish/French renaissance; opulant, intricate, many shrines -all in gold - either leaf on timber, plate on silver, or the real thing! Also saw the catecombs and their religious artworks gallery. Religious art of this type is just not my thing I have decided. Anyway I'm sure you have that understanding from other entries so won't repeat here.
The Presidential Guard outside his residence. Very resplendant in their royal blue and red uniforms. Hard to get close for a look with security even on the outside of the fence. But managed to snap a pic through the fence on zoom...
Wandered off the Plaza and saw:
A beautiful colonial mansion - fully restored - now the department of finance, with timber latticed verandahs over hanging the street and a beautiful garden courtyard in it's centre.
Museo Del Banco de Reserva - in an old bank. Amazing gold display in the old vault in the basement. Contemporary Peruvian art displays and traditional ceramics including a display of the whistling jugs - they whistle from the air hole when you pour from them.
Plaza San Martin links the main shopping mall to the Plaza de Armas and includes the La Merced Church with a striking facade, intricately carved in timber and stone, opposite a bank of contemporary design. In the square were a mass of money changers, touts and hawkers. Interesting contrast between the churches' peaceful quiet, the bank's wealth and the crush of humanity just outside their doors. It reminded me of that bible story of the money changers trading in the church and one of the disciples turned over the tables and told them they were corrupt even though they were trading under the protection of the church...(have I remembered the story correctly?)
Then left the inner city and went out to the main Peruvian Museum. Incredible place, well presented and so interesting. Gives such a good overview of civilisations in Peru across the millennia. You need this to get everything in order. There has been such a wealth of civilisations rise and fall across a relatively short period of history. The Peruvians don't seem to worry about this rise and fall. They accept it as history and accept their place in the world how as given. There doesn't seem to be resentment about each stronger race or culture overtaking the other.
HINDSIGHT: Even writing now after 3 weeks in Peru, I think this is true. Although guides have explained the Spanish conquest of Peru and how unfair the competition between the well armed Spanish and local Inca and Indians, they don't seem to hold emnity towards the Spanish. FYI - the Spanish had cavalry, supply wagons and guns and the Inca had never seen a horse or oxen, cart or cannon, gun or gun powder - or had any idea of the damage they could inflict. It is refreshing to me to see the conquored peoples actually ruling their own country. Even though they are doing a quaestionable job at it at least they are in charge of their destiny. The normal person doesn't seem to have a hand-out mentality. They just do the best they can with what they've got and don't wait for the government to solve their problems. That is only my naive opinion but...
Got out on my own today to explore Lima city. Andrew and Paola live in Miraflores which is one of the top two suburbs of Lima (the other one is Baranco - more night clubs here) and out of town on the beach. Miraflores is very salubrious (although I'm sure there are bits far less so). Most of the big chain hotels are here. Their unit is one block back from the water on top of the cliffs and there is a view of the ocean from the kitchen windows and the room I am in. We are only one block from the posh shopping complex Larco Mar - a bit like the big 'be seen' places at Noosa. There is also a very nice square with church and gardens in Miraflores central - where the tourists shop and Pizza Alley and the restaurant strip is. Explored this another day but mention it here for ease. I also went for a cliff top walk and watched the paragliders jump off the cliffs and cruise past the diners at Larco Mar.
Matthew and I had great games in the unit chasing the paragliders from window to window as they went past at our 6th floor height.
Paola and Andrew are very protective of me and worry about my safety in Lima. Especially when out alone. While I am very aware Lima is full of seedy elements and I have to be careful; it is no more dangerous than any other developing nation I have visited. In hindsight I can say this is true. Cairo, Istanbul, London and Paris are all dangerous places where you have to be careful and always 100% aware of your surroundings. Plenty of poor who need to make a living of those who have more...
Anyway, I had a great day exploring...
Lima city, there is so much to see and I just went to a few of the many things on offer:
Plaza de Armas, the main square and centre of the old city includes:
The Cathedral, very Catholic -ie. Spanish/French renaissance; opulant, intricate, many shrines -all in gold - either leaf on timber, plate on silver, or the real thing! Also saw the catecombs and their religious artworks gallery. Religious art of this type is just not my thing I have decided. Anyway I'm sure you have that understanding from other entries so won't repeat here.
The Presidential Guard outside his residence. Very resplendant in their royal blue and red uniforms. Hard to get close for a look with security even on the outside of the fence. But managed to snap a pic through the fence on zoom...
Wandered off the Plaza and saw:
A beautiful colonial mansion - fully restored - now the department of finance, with timber latticed verandahs over hanging the street and a beautiful garden courtyard in it's centre.
Museo Del Banco de Reserva - in an old bank. Amazing gold display in the old vault in the basement. Contemporary Peruvian art displays and traditional ceramics including a display of the whistling jugs - they whistle from the air hole when you pour from them.
Plaza San Martin links the main shopping mall to the Plaza de Armas and includes the La Merced Church with a striking facade, intricately carved in timber and stone, opposite a bank of contemporary design. In the square were a mass of money changers, touts and hawkers. Interesting contrast between the churches' peaceful quiet, the bank's wealth and the crush of humanity just outside their doors. It reminded me of that bible story of the money changers trading in the church and one of the disciples turned over the tables and told them they were corrupt even though they were trading under the protection of the church...(have I remembered the story correctly?)
Then left the inner city and went out to the main Peruvian Museum. Incredible place, well presented and so interesting. Gives such a good overview of civilisations in Peru across the millennia. You need this to get everything in order. There has been such a wealth of civilisations rise and fall across a relatively short period of history. The Peruvians don't seem to worry about this rise and fall. They accept it as history and accept their place in the world how as given. There doesn't seem to be resentment about each stronger race or culture overtaking the other.
HINDSIGHT: Even writing now after 3 weeks in Peru, I think this is true. Although guides have explained the Spanish conquest of Peru and how unfair the competition between the well armed Spanish and local Inca and Indians, they don't seem to hold emnity towards the Spanish. FYI - the Spanish had cavalry, supply wagons and guns and the Inca had never seen a horse or oxen, cart or cannon, gun or gun powder - or had any idea of the damage they could inflict. It is refreshing to me to see the conquored peoples actually ruling their own country. Even though they are doing a quaestionable job at it at least they are in charge of their destiny. The normal person doesn't seem to have a hand-out mentality. They just do the best they can with what they've got and don't wait for the government to solve their problems. That is only my naive opinion but...
# posted by The Essence of Good Taste @ 4:11 PM 
