Friday, September 22, 2006
Thursday 21 September 2006
I Walked the Wall!!
Ok, be proud of me - I walked about 12 miles today. Caught the bus this morning to Chesters Fort - explored this Roman settlement and then set off to pretend to be Roman for the day. Did Brocolitia, Housesteads Fort and stopped walking at Once Brewed - what a great name for a village - and the pub 100m up the road is called Twice Brewed - had a drink here while a waited for the bus to take me back to Greenhead - walking is about fun not a chore. I felt twice brewed by then- 12 mile was enough!
Those wild Scots must have been a real threat cause that is one massive wall. The first 10km I walked didn't seem so fantastic - a lot of the wall is missing or underground. But the 5km into Housesteads and the 5km after Housesteads is amazing. No raders were going either nth or sth wothout the romans permission!
It was a very windy day and a couple of times I thought I might get blown off the wall - even had to sit down and wait for the gusts to calm down. What a god-aweful spot it would be in winter. Cold with a capital C. It was a beautiful sunny day but incredibly windy which stopped me getting too hot walking. I didn't see a soul until Housesteads and could really feel the history and environment. And for movie buffs - you know the movie Robinhood, the tree Morgan Freeman rests under on the way back from the Crusades - well it is on Hadrians Wall. Great spot.
Anyway got to go and catch a train to Loch Lamond - will do more diary later...
I Walked the Wall!!
Ok, be proud of me - I walked about 12 miles today. Caught the bus this morning to Chesters Fort - explored this Roman settlement and then set off to pretend to be Roman for the day. Did Brocolitia, Housesteads Fort and stopped walking at Once Brewed - what a great name for a village - and the pub 100m up the road is called Twice Brewed - had a drink here while a waited for the bus to take me back to Greenhead - walking is about fun not a chore. I felt twice brewed by then- 12 mile was enough!
Those wild Scots must have been a real threat cause that is one massive wall. The first 10km I walked didn't seem so fantastic - a lot of the wall is missing or underground. But the 5km into Housesteads and the 5km after Housesteads is amazing. No raders were going either nth or sth wothout the romans permission!
It was a very windy day and a couple of times I thought I might get blown off the wall - even had to sit down and wait for the gusts to calm down. What a god-aweful spot it would be in winter. Cold with a capital C. It was a beautiful sunny day but incredibly windy which stopped me getting too hot walking. I didn't see a soul until Housesteads and could really feel the history and environment. And for movie buffs - you know the movie Robinhood, the tree Morgan Freeman rests under on the way back from the Crusades - well it is on Hadrians Wall. Great spot.
Anyway got to go and catch a train to Loch Lamond - will do more diary later...
Wednesday 20 September 2006
Spent today travelling. But boy some countryside. This is definately somewhere I'll put on the list to come back to....
Left the Lakes and caught a bus across the countryside to Kendal and Ingleton. Had time to kill in each village. And they were just that. Very cute especially Ingleton. There was a sweet shop with residence for sale and I was imagining retiring here - and then realised quickly that I would be bored brainless- you'd need to be writing a book or a thesis and need the quiet....then bused across to Settle. From Ingleton I had got to the heart of the Yorkshire Dales. I like these people! Forthright, great sense of humour, friendly, unaffected. My bus driver, the only other passenger and I, laughed all the way to Settle. Even the sheep were not safe from her jokes.
Caught the train from Settle to Carlisle - across the Dales/Moors. The weather today was another overcast but not wet day and it wasn't too closed in so saw some good views. Again, not great photo weather but the green - so green it is indescribable - is there a name for it? - rich, thick, like the finest quality wool carpet. We passed walkers waving to us as we passed over huge Victorian viaducts - it was truely the age of conquoring the environment - tunnels, bridges, nothing stopped the railway man! The English love to walk/hike - rain, hail or shine!
From Carlisle, just a busy regional town, I travelled on to Greenhead in the heart of the Hadrians Wall. Got here late afternoon in time to settle in before a big days walking t omorrow.
Spent today travelling. But boy some countryside. This is definately somewhere I'll put on the list to come back to....
Left the Lakes and caught a bus across the countryside to Kendal and Ingleton. Had time to kill in each village. And they were just that. Very cute especially Ingleton. There was a sweet shop with residence for sale and I was imagining retiring here - and then realised quickly that I would be bored brainless- you'd need to be writing a book or a thesis and need the quiet....then bused across to Settle. From Ingleton I had got to the heart of the Yorkshire Dales. I like these people! Forthright, great sense of humour, friendly, unaffected. My bus driver, the only other passenger and I, laughed all the way to Settle. Even the sheep were not safe from her jokes.
Caught the train from Settle to Carlisle - across the Dales/Moors. The weather today was another overcast but not wet day and it wasn't too closed in so saw some good views. Again, not great photo weather but the green - so green it is indescribable - is there a name for it? - rich, thick, like the finest quality wool carpet. We passed walkers waving to us as we passed over huge Victorian viaducts - it was truely the age of conquoring the environment - tunnels, bridges, nothing stopped the railway man! The English love to walk/hike - rain, hail or shine!
From Carlisle, just a busy regional town, I travelled on to Greenhead in the heart of the Hadrians Wall. Got here late afternoon in time to settle in before a big days walking t omorrow.
Monday 18 September 2006
Ok, back in England. Chester...mmm...well it was a hike from the station to the YHA - why are they always so bloody far from the station. I'm getting fitter carrying the weight. I worked out my pack is 17kg and my day pack with my guide books is about 9kg. So all up I'm carrying 26kg not including what I'm actually wearing. Boots, coat and clothes probably add another 2kg. (now I'm getting annal but when you're shoulders are screaming these silly calculations go through your head). And you know what, when you add that 28kg to my frame of 60kg I still am a lesser mass than the obese people around me on the streets and on the public transport - and they have to sleep and shower with that much weight - no wonder there are so many people with walking canes - their legs just can't keep up - literally. Take note boys - what happens when you live on a diet of deep fried foods and very few fresh fruit and veges!!!!! I'm not joking it's not Yanks I'm seeing huge like this it's Brits.
Anyway the YHA is another beautiful old home (being sold as they can't afford to keep it) - it'll go for a bomb. I took photos to prove it. Amazing stained glass sky-light, etc.
Chester, well I had to walk the town this morning with my full pack, and I've worked out when I have to do this the poor place suffers my hard judgement. Salsbury and Oxford suffered the same fate. It's hard to be kind when you can't dump your pack and walk easily. It is actually quite a pretty town and the old town wall is a great way to see the city - all the pretty bits are inside the walls. Got some nice pics and topped up the chocolate supply at my favourite English chocolate shop - Thorntons...mmm...yum...trust me to get my priorities right - have to include chocolate in the daily diet!
Caught the train at lunch time and headed up to the Lake District. Took all afternoon to get there but that's ok - beautiful scenery. Reasonable day - overcast but fine. Pretty views. Got to Ambleside about 3pm dumped the gear at the most central hostel yet (except Oxford) and walked into the village. What a beautiful spot. The hostel is right on Lake Windemere (that is right on the lake - there is a pontoon at the front door for those who arrive by boat!) My room view is directly onto the Lake. The weather is closing in this afternoon so hope tomorrow is not a repeat of Snowdon...
Wandered around the village and found heaven! Oh Tammy and Fran wouldn't you love this place - two organic food shops that sell everything from fruit and vege to dairy produce to deli and butchery lines. And...one also sells the prepared product from an ajoining restaurant. So treated myself to apple pie and cream (there have been apples falling off trees so had to actually eat some). Came back the next night for dinner but foolishly didn't book so missed out and ended up with average chinese...oh well thems the breaks...
The hostel is packed and met more English people (where are the international backpacking fraternity? - obviously not staying YHA!)
Tuesday 19 September 2006
Had a whole day in the Lakes. After a very wet and windy night amazingly it is reasonably clear today. Cold and windy abut not raining. Spent the morning cruising the lake trying to take photos as the sun peeped out from the clouds. Photos don't work when it is dull - there's no definition to the scenery. A very beautiful place and I can see why the English have flocked here since Victorian times. Attracts the posh end of the market (like an English Noosa or Port Douglas). This afternoon I was very lucky and one of the YHA staff was heading out in his car and offered me a lift to see some of the places (basically it's pretty hard to get around here without a car - and walking you need a week to cover just some of the ground). So, in 4 hours I saw a huge amount and didn't have to be the one concentrating on the driving - narrow winding roads - not easy. For those of you who are interested or have memories - not in any order - saw Wast Water, Buttermere, Crummock Water, Keswick, Derwent Water, Borrowdale Valley, Coniston, and went over Hardknott Pass. Sort of area you could spend years exploring and in good weather you can drink in the views - both small and large. Hunter and Maclean - I have sent you a postcard of the view from Hardknott Pass.
Buttermere is supposedly Britain's wettest place. Certainly there is plenty of ground water. When you get out around here to walk to a lake edge, walk around a roman fort, get a a vantage point for a view - the ground underfoot is very squashy and wet. There are bogs and 'sinks' and springs and streams everywhere. I could imagine how isolated those roman soldiers must have felt based up on the Hardknott pass looking out to the west and counting the days til they were relieved. Interestingly the troops based here were from what is now Bosnia and Spain....
Ok, back in England. Chester...mmm...well it was a hike from the station to the YHA - why are they always so bloody far from the station. I'm getting fitter carrying the weight. I worked out my pack is 17kg and my day pack with my guide books is about 9kg. So all up I'm carrying 26kg not including what I'm actually wearing. Boots, coat and clothes probably add another 2kg. (now I'm getting annal but when you're shoulders are screaming these silly calculations go through your head). And you know what, when you add that 28kg to my frame of 60kg I still am a lesser mass than the obese people around me on the streets and on the public transport - and they have to sleep and shower with that much weight - no wonder there are so many people with walking canes - their legs just can't keep up - literally. Take note boys - what happens when you live on a diet of deep fried foods and very few fresh fruit and veges!!!!! I'm not joking it's not Yanks I'm seeing huge like this it's Brits.
Anyway the YHA is another beautiful old home (being sold as they can't afford to keep it) - it'll go for a bomb. I took photos to prove it. Amazing stained glass sky-light, etc.
Chester, well I had to walk the town this morning with my full pack, and I've worked out when I have to do this the poor place suffers my hard judgement. Salsbury and Oxford suffered the same fate. It's hard to be kind when you can't dump your pack and walk easily. It is actually quite a pretty town and the old town wall is a great way to see the city - all the pretty bits are inside the walls. Got some nice pics and topped up the chocolate supply at my favourite English chocolate shop - Thorntons...mmm...yum...trust me to get my priorities right - have to include chocolate in the daily diet!
Caught the train at lunch time and headed up to the Lake District. Took all afternoon to get there but that's ok - beautiful scenery. Reasonable day - overcast but fine. Pretty views. Got to Ambleside about 3pm dumped the gear at the most central hostel yet (except Oxford) and walked into the village. What a beautiful spot. The hostel is right on Lake Windemere (that is right on the lake - there is a pontoon at the front door for those who arrive by boat!) My room view is directly onto the Lake. The weather is closing in this afternoon so hope tomorrow is not a repeat of Snowdon...
Wandered around the village and found heaven! Oh Tammy and Fran wouldn't you love this place - two organic food shops that sell everything from fruit and vege to dairy produce to deli and butchery lines. And...one also sells the prepared product from an ajoining restaurant. So treated myself to apple pie and cream (there have been apples falling off trees so had to actually eat some). Came back the next night for dinner but foolishly didn't book so missed out and ended up with average chinese...oh well thems the breaks...
The hostel is packed and met more English people (where are the international backpacking fraternity? - obviously not staying YHA!)
Tuesday 19 September 2006
Had a whole day in the Lakes. After a very wet and windy night amazingly it is reasonably clear today. Cold and windy abut not raining. Spent the morning cruising the lake trying to take photos as the sun peeped out from the clouds. Photos don't work when it is dull - there's no definition to the scenery. A very beautiful place and I can see why the English have flocked here since Victorian times. Attracts the posh end of the market (like an English Noosa or Port Douglas). This afternoon I was very lucky and one of the YHA staff was heading out in his car and offered me a lift to see some of the places (basically it's pretty hard to get around here without a car - and walking you need a week to cover just some of the ground). So, in 4 hours I saw a huge amount and didn't have to be the one concentrating on the driving - narrow winding roads - not easy. For those of you who are interested or have memories - not in any order - saw Wast Water, Buttermere, Crummock Water, Keswick, Derwent Water, Borrowdale Valley, Coniston, and went over Hardknott Pass. Sort of area you could spend years exploring and in good weather you can drink in the views - both small and large. Hunter and Maclean - I have sent you a postcard of the view from Hardknott Pass.
Buttermere is supposedly Britain's wettest place. Certainly there is plenty of ground water. When you get out around here to walk to a lake edge, walk around a roman fort, get a a vantage point for a view - the ground underfoot is very squashy and wet. There are bogs and 'sinks' and springs and streams everywhere. I could imagine how isolated those roman soldiers must have felt based up on the Hardknott pass looking out to the west and counting the days til they were relieved. Interestingly the troops based here were from what is now Bosnia and Spain....
Sunday 17 September 2006
Off to Conwy (pronounced Conway) today (still in Wales). Caught the train from Bangor - just a 3 car train - and couldn't get out of the train - my car didn't fit on the platform at Conwy and I didn't know this so got stuck and had to go to the next station (had a panic til I realised it was only 3 minutes up the line). Anyway, the point was it was actually better cause I walked back across the bridge to Conwy and got come magnificant views and photos of the town and castle.
A picturesque town that I walked the old town wall (about 2 miles around) from the castle to the waterfront and back up to the castle. Great views off the castle ramparts and wall. Tiny place and the real estate within the old town wall is greatly inflated. I can see why people want tot holiday here - it is VERY pretty.
Also visited to old homes Aberconwy House - a house built about the time of the castle (same architectural features) that has survived being on a main town cross road just inside the waterside gate for 750 years (that's since mid 1200's)- how it hasn't been burned, pillaged, plundered, etc no-one knows. In fact there's no history of it known before the mid 1500's but they know it is earlier due to the building techniques. Very interesting for the fact it has survived. Not a posh place either just a normal merchants home, became a temperance hotel and then ended up the the National trust only 50 years ago.
In contrast I also visited Plas Mawr up the street and built in 1500's by a prominant trader - stayed in the family until the Trust got it I think about 1970's. Interestingly it survived because the family spent so much money fighting over who should get it when the original owner died, they had no money left to change it and it was broken into tennaments in the late 1700's and was used that way for 200 years (that is had whole poor families living in each room - which of course could not afford to change anything - and the owners didn't bother changing anything). In the early 1900's an infant school took over a whole floor and again didn't have any money to change it. So when the Trust got it, it was very dilapidated from water/weather damage but pretty much original. They took out all the partitions and then started from the top and spent a couple of million £s restoring it - the video of what they had to do structurally and the bits they left so you could see how and what they did was fascinating - it's the home reno hero coming out in me!! Oh to have that much to spend!
Anyway, got the last train to Chester this afternoon. The journey was interesting - remember it's Sunday afternoon...well we passed all the north wales seaside towns in the train and picked up all the (still English) weekend holiday makers returning home - kids, dogs, sand, noise, etc. Each of these villages is at the back of deep sand dunes (not rocky coastline like the southwest of England and Wales) and they have flattened the dunes and put in miles and miles of 'trailer parks' - I don't know what they call them - but I think you buy or rent a 'plot' and out a posh ATCO shed on them and either use it yourself or rent it to others. Amazing. Back in England...
Off to Conwy (pronounced Conway) today (still in Wales). Caught the train from Bangor - just a 3 car train - and couldn't get out of the train - my car didn't fit on the platform at Conwy and I didn't know this so got stuck and had to go to the next station (had a panic til I realised it was only 3 minutes up the line). Anyway, the point was it was actually better cause I walked back across the bridge to Conwy and got come magnificant views and photos of the town and castle.
A picturesque town that I walked the old town wall (about 2 miles around) from the castle to the waterfront and back up to the castle. Great views off the castle ramparts and wall. Tiny place and the real estate within the old town wall is greatly inflated. I can see why people want tot holiday here - it is VERY pretty.
Also visited to old homes Aberconwy House - a house built about the time of the castle (same architectural features) that has survived being on a main town cross road just inside the waterside gate for 750 years (that's since mid 1200's)- how it hasn't been burned, pillaged, plundered, etc no-one knows. In fact there's no history of it known before the mid 1500's but they know it is earlier due to the building techniques. Very interesting for the fact it has survived. Not a posh place either just a normal merchants home, became a temperance hotel and then ended up the the National trust only 50 years ago.
In contrast I also visited Plas Mawr up the street and built in 1500's by a prominant trader - stayed in the family until the Trust got it I think about 1970's. Interestingly it survived because the family spent so much money fighting over who should get it when the original owner died, they had no money left to change it and it was broken into tennaments in the late 1700's and was used that way for 200 years (that is had whole poor families living in each room - which of course could not afford to change anything - and the owners didn't bother changing anything). In the early 1900's an infant school took over a whole floor and again didn't have any money to change it. So when the Trust got it, it was very dilapidated from water/weather damage but pretty much original. They took out all the partitions and then started from the top and spent a couple of million £s restoring it - the video of what they had to do structurally and the bits they left so you could see how and what they did was fascinating - it's the home reno hero coming out in me!! Oh to have that much to spend!
Anyway, got the last train to Chester this afternoon. The journey was interesting - remember it's Sunday afternoon...well we passed all the north wales seaside towns in the train and picked up all the (still English) weekend holiday makers returning home - kids, dogs, sand, noise, etc. Each of these villages is at the back of deep sand dunes (not rocky coastline like the southwest of England and Wales) and they have flattened the dunes and put in miles and miles of 'trailer parks' - I don't know what they call them - but I think you buy or rent a 'plot' and out a posh ATCO shed on them and either use it yourself or rent it to others. Amazing. Back in England...
Saturday 16 September 2006
As you will have read I headed over to Bangor (pronouned Banga) on Friday afternoon after a lovely morning in Caernarfon. Got into Bangor and checked into the YHA which is a stately home just out of town. Glorious afternoon and evening - weather has been forgiven and we're back to perfect again. There were 2 other Aussies (from Sydney) and an Englishman (from Hull) checking in with me and we joined forces and walked back into the village to find a pub to experience the 'local'. Sat at the pier and solved the world's problems - first true pub experience - always better when you've got company - pubs are a bit lonely on your own...funny thing is I could recite the standard 'pub grub' menu throughout Britain - Chicken Tikka Masala, fish and chips, 100% beef burgers (not sure how much beef other restaurants put in...), nachos (no meat)...all served with chips...so I ordered fish and chips double salad - hold the chips - and bless them that's what I got!
So, Saturday morning headed over to Anglesey for the day and the 'Hull Man' - Mike - gave me a lift as he had a car - and saved me the bus fare. Visited Baumaris Castle - a little squat one; sat on the waterfront watching families feed the seagulls with their hot chips (more bloody chips...) and enjoying the view across to the mainland all green and lush - bit hazy though so the photos are not so good - the seagulls are HUGE - twice the size of ours; went for a lovely walk up into the hillside behind Baumaris and could have been in a fairy glen. Kept expecting either a knight, a druid, or a fairy to pop out of the woodland glen....not sure that the photos do it justice; tried to do a Puffin spotting tour but it seems it is too late in the year - don't know where the Puffins go but not Anglesey obviously. Maybe I'll be lucky and see some in the West Hebridies...
Bumped back into Mike at Plas Newydd a stately home I visited with huge lawns overlooking the Menai Straits. This place is still lived in and looks it - the carpets are quite worn and the walls look like normal family homes - grubby marks around the light switches, etc. Nice feel actually - not so museumy. Mike offered me a lift to the next vantage point and I finished my afternoon on Anglesey at a sandy bay (can't remember the name) full of bird life. It was tidal and the far side (inland side) of the 'cob' (like the one at Porthmadog) were wetlands. Unfortunately my bird knowledge even in Oz is pretty basic so I don't know specifically what I was looking at but they were all sorts and quite different to home - more bigger birds in my mind...also learned what a 'nettle' looks like and that they sting (no I didn't get stung) and what the antidote plant looks like too...mmm...needed this information later in the Lake district - but that's another story...
Tonight I joined a group of mountain bike enthusiasts staying at the Bangor hostel for a 'curry' - another English tradition I am in Wales experiencing. They were from Lancaster (see, more English in Wales). But I learned another English idiosincracy - they ordered papadums as a 'starter' (not entrees here) and ate them with chutney, an onion 'dip' and mayonaise condiments. They didn't have papadums with their currys. And they were all sweating profusely with 'medium' curries - I ordered Vindaloo (supposedly 'hot') and it was 'medium' in the Oz scale. I have decided it is very hard to eat well on £5-6 (remember that's $12-15 for dinner and I could eat pretty good dinners even in Cairns restaurants for that at home) Anyway, I'm not really whinging just making a point - and it was great fun to listen to the dozen or so of this group in conversation.
As you will have read I headed over to Bangor (pronouned Banga) on Friday afternoon after a lovely morning in Caernarfon. Got into Bangor and checked into the YHA which is a stately home just out of town. Glorious afternoon and evening - weather has been forgiven and we're back to perfect again. There were 2 other Aussies (from Sydney) and an Englishman (from Hull) checking in with me and we joined forces and walked back into the village to find a pub to experience the 'local'. Sat at the pier and solved the world's problems - first true pub experience - always better when you've got company - pubs are a bit lonely on your own...funny thing is I could recite the standard 'pub grub' menu throughout Britain - Chicken Tikka Masala, fish and chips, 100% beef burgers (not sure how much beef other restaurants put in...), nachos (no meat)...all served with chips...so I ordered fish and chips double salad - hold the chips - and bless them that's what I got!
So, Saturday morning headed over to Anglesey for the day and the 'Hull Man' - Mike - gave me a lift as he had a car - and saved me the bus fare. Visited Baumaris Castle - a little squat one; sat on the waterfront watching families feed the seagulls with their hot chips (more bloody chips...) and enjoying the view across to the mainland all green and lush - bit hazy though so the photos are not so good - the seagulls are HUGE - twice the size of ours; went for a lovely walk up into the hillside behind Baumaris and could have been in a fairy glen. Kept expecting either a knight, a druid, or a fairy to pop out of the woodland glen....not sure that the photos do it justice; tried to do a Puffin spotting tour but it seems it is too late in the year - don't know where the Puffins go but not Anglesey obviously. Maybe I'll be lucky and see some in the West Hebridies...
Bumped back into Mike at Plas Newydd a stately home I visited with huge lawns overlooking the Menai Straits. This place is still lived in and looks it - the carpets are quite worn and the walls look like normal family homes - grubby marks around the light switches, etc. Nice feel actually - not so museumy. Mike offered me a lift to the next vantage point and I finished my afternoon on Anglesey at a sandy bay (can't remember the name) full of bird life. It was tidal and the far side (inland side) of the 'cob' (like the one at Porthmadog) were wetlands. Unfortunately my bird knowledge even in Oz is pretty basic so I don't know specifically what I was looking at but they were all sorts and quite different to home - more bigger birds in my mind...also learned what a 'nettle' looks like and that they sting (no I didn't get stung) and what the antidote plant looks like too...mmm...needed this information later in the Lake district - but that's another story...
Tonight I joined a group of mountain bike enthusiasts staying at the Bangor hostel for a 'curry' - another English tradition I am in Wales experiencing. They were from Lancaster (see, more English in Wales). But I learned another English idiosincracy - they ordered papadums as a 'starter' (not entrees here) and ate them with chutney, an onion 'dip' and mayonaise condiments. They didn't have papadums with their currys. And they were all sweating profusely with 'medium' curries - I ordered Vindaloo (supposedly 'hot') and it was 'medium' in the Oz scale. I have decided it is very hard to eat well on £5-6 (remember that's $12-15 for dinner and I could eat pretty good dinners even in Cairns restaurants for that at home) Anyway, I'm not really whinging just making a point - and it was great fun to listen to the dozen or so of this group in conversation.
Friday, September 15, 2006
Wednesday 13 September 2006
Going backwards so I don't forget the current stuff...
This morning I explored the slate mines of Blaenau Ffestiniog - not much chop actually. Could have been very good - plenty of unemployed miners to recuite as guides, but they used recorded commentary...mmm...
But this little village is the main station to pick up the scenic railway to Porthmadog. Absolutely beatiful trip. Wales is GORGEOUS. We trundelled over vaiducts, passed hikers on paths winding under huge groves of green leafy trees, wound around maintain sides with steep drop-offs and views forever. It is a late summer with very little gold or brown in the scenery yet. The weather has been warm and fine. Wonderful.
I picked an open carriage and had uninterupted views. But had to laugh we went through several tunnels - one that was about 1km long and there was no lighting in any carriage - and as it was a long tunnel there was not light from either end. It was PITCH black. There was no difference whether your eyes were open or closed and when we came out the other side I fully expected the other passengers to have all moved or at least something to have changed. But no, we were all sitting there as stunned as each other at how black 'black' is!
Got into Porthmadog this afternoon, took a walk along the water front and around town before walking to the next village to my hostel - the birthplace of Laurence of Arabia - so there you go Laurence Bristow - I've stayed the night in the home of your name sake - good looking man if his portrait is anything to go by!
Wales strikes me as much poorer than England. Their communities are smaller, they live in smaller, less well maintained homes. There are less 'big' homes in each village and around. Not as many stately homes either. And less well dressed people. Also, Wales seems to be well populated by the English. Most of the tourists seem to be from parts of England. Bumped into a few Aussies and Kiwis, hear the odd French and US/Canadian accent. Not a Scots or Irish one though...
Thursday 14 September 2006
This morning woke up to a filthy wet day as you have read on another posting...
Read on...
Going backwards so I don't forget the current stuff...
This morning I explored the slate mines of Blaenau Ffestiniog - not much chop actually. Could have been very good - plenty of unemployed miners to recuite as guides, but they used recorded commentary...mmm...
But this little village is the main station to pick up the scenic railway to Porthmadog. Absolutely beatiful trip. Wales is GORGEOUS. We trundelled over vaiducts, passed hikers on paths winding under huge groves of green leafy trees, wound around maintain sides with steep drop-offs and views forever. It is a late summer with very little gold or brown in the scenery yet. The weather has been warm and fine. Wonderful.
I picked an open carriage and had uninterupted views. But had to laugh we went through several tunnels - one that was about 1km long and there was no lighting in any carriage - and as it was a long tunnel there was not light from either end. It was PITCH black. There was no difference whether your eyes were open or closed and when we came out the other side I fully expected the other passengers to have all moved or at least something to have changed. But no, we were all sitting there as stunned as each other at how black 'black' is!
Got into Porthmadog this afternoon, took a walk along the water front and around town before walking to the next village to my hostel - the birthplace of Laurence of Arabia - so there you go Laurence Bristow - I've stayed the night in the home of your name sake - good looking man if his portrait is anything to go by!
Wales strikes me as much poorer than England. Their communities are smaller, they live in smaller, less well maintained homes. There are less 'big' homes in each village and around. Not as many stately homes either. And less well dressed people. Also, Wales seems to be well populated by the English. Most of the tourists seem to be from parts of England. Bumped into a few Aussies and Kiwis, hear the odd French and US/Canadian accent. Not a Scots or Irish one though...
Thursday 14 September 2006
This morning woke up to a filthy wet day as you have read on another posting...
Read on...
Friday 15 September 2006
Well today it is fine! It's 10 days since my last confession (I left London and easy access to public internet). I'm in Caernarfon. A beautiful town by the sea. I woke this morning in Llanberis at the base of Mt Snowdon to a magnificant early Autumn day (I imagine as we don't have such things at home). As I walked down the hill from the hostel to catch the bus I noticed the rain drops from the day before (we'll get to that!) sparkling on the bushes and trees. Late flowers and blackberries had been washed clean and the morning was fresh and clear. There was a little fog down in the low valleys but the mountain was clear as was the village.
A little different from yesterday Thurs 14 September 2006. Ok, so I've worked out with only one filthy, wet, foggy, cold day in over 2 weeks that I HATE THE COLD AND RAIN. I'm a North Qlder to the core of my frozen wet tootsies! Now that you've stopped laughing at me...I braved Thursday and travelled from a little village called Tremadog (outside Porthadog) across the mountain passes to Llanberis. Which even in the rain and fog I could see was the most spectacular and scenic countryside - definately worth comin back to for some extended hiking. You could walk across in 1-2 days with an overnight stay in an isolted B&B. Definately on a good day you would feel you were in heaven...crystal mountain streams, huge forests, sheer cliffs, valleys, passes, etc...Anyway...Llanberis is where you catch the rack and pinion railway up to the top of Mt Snowdon.
Hunter and MacLean, if you look up your old Thomas the Tank Engine book you will remember the Welsh Highland railways - well I went on it. It is a little green engine that runs on a small guage rail line with a central line that looks like a bike chain and under the train is a wheel with spokes that go into these gaps and pull the engine up. It's clunky but works on this very steep gradient.
Unfortunately it was so wet and foggy I saw no views but I do have a photo of "Wales in a Fog" to compare with this mornings "Wales on a beautiful day" - in fact this morning I should have sung "Morning has Broken" - but it would have broken the morning with my terrible singing voice!
Ok, so cut my losses and kept onthe road. I had a great time exploring Caernarfon Castle this morning. Had great fun cause you're allowed all over it - someone from work/health and safety is yet to do an assessment here cause no where else have I been allowed up spiral staircases with crumbling stairs and no safety rails at the top. The tallest tower I climbed had 54 spiral steps up the actual turrent and a further 86 down through the tower to ground level. Views are terrific. The tour guide did a great job bringing the 1200's alive and explained a lot of the building processes which no-one else bothers with - so now I understand much better how they actually built these massive fortresses.
Did the old town walk this afternoon and wandered the alleys. Also took a short boat ride out into the harbour and along the Menai Straits to the mouth of the estuary. Good views back to the town and castle.
Off to Bangor this afternoon. Using it as a base to explore Mo'n - or Anglesey, as we say in English. Overthe next coupleof days. Hope to see a puffin and some long gone druid ghosts...
Well today it is fine! It's 10 days since my last confession (I left London and easy access to public internet). I'm in Caernarfon. A beautiful town by the sea. I woke this morning in Llanberis at the base of Mt Snowdon to a magnificant early Autumn day (I imagine as we don't have such things at home). As I walked down the hill from the hostel to catch the bus I noticed the rain drops from the day before (we'll get to that!) sparkling on the bushes and trees. Late flowers and blackberries had been washed clean and the morning was fresh and clear. There was a little fog down in the low valleys but the mountain was clear as was the village.
A little different from yesterday Thurs 14 September 2006. Ok, so I've worked out with only one filthy, wet, foggy, cold day in over 2 weeks that I HATE THE COLD AND RAIN. I'm a North Qlder to the core of my frozen wet tootsies! Now that you've stopped laughing at me...I braved Thursday and travelled from a little village called Tremadog (outside Porthadog) across the mountain passes to Llanberis. Which even in the rain and fog I could see was the most spectacular and scenic countryside - definately worth comin back to for some extended hiking. You could walk across in 1-2 days with an overnight stay in an isolted B&B. Definately on a good day you would feel you were in heaven...crystal mountain streams, huge forests, sheer cliffs, valleys, passes, etc...Anyway...Llanberis is where you catch the rack and pinion railway up to the top of Mt Snowdon.
Hunter and MacLean, if you look up your old Thomas the Tank Engine book you will remember the Welsh Highland railways - well I went on it. It is a little green engine that runs on a small guage rail line with a central line that looks like a bike chain and under the train is a wheel with spokes that go into these gaps and pull the engine up. It's clunky but works on this very steep gradient.
Unfortunately it was so wet and foggy I saw no views but I do have a photo of "Wales in a Fog" to compare with this mornings "Wales on a beautiful day" - in fact this morning I should have sung "Morning has Broken" - but it would have broken the morning with my terrible singing voice!
Ok, so cut my losses and kept onthe road. I had a great time exploring Caernarfon Castle this morning. Had great fun cause you're allowed all over it - someone from work/health and safety is yet to do an assessment here cause no where else have I been allowed up spiral staircases with crumbling stairs and no safety rails at the top. The tallest tower I climbed had 54 spiral steps up the actual turrent and a further 86 down through the tower to ground level. Views are terrific. The tour guide did a great job bringing the 1200's alive and explained a lot of the building processes which no-one else bothers with - so now I understand much better how they actually built these massive fortresses.
Did the old town walk this afternoon and wandered the alleys. Also took a short boat ride out into the harbour and along the Menai Straits to the mouth of the estuary. Good views back to the town and castle.
Off to Bangor this afternoon. Using it as a base to explore Mo'n - or Anglesey, as we say in English. Overthe next coupleof days. Hope to see a puffin and some long gone druid ghosts...
Tuesday, September 05, 2006
A rough itinerary for the next 5 weeks
I spent some time today working out an itinerary for the next four weeks or so. Basically I've had 4 days in London, I've got 14 days in England outside London, 5 days in Wales and 12 days in Scotland. I am doing pretty well but I'm going to be pushing some days and really could do with another day in Wales.
Here goes...
Wed 6/9
(England) Salisbury, ON Exeter
Thurs 7/9
Dartmore, ON Tintagel
Fri 8/9
Tintagel to Bath, ON Bath
Sat 9/9
Bath, ON Oxford
Sun 10/9
Blenheim Palace, ON Stratford Upon Avon
Mon 11/9
Stratford UA, Shrewsbury, ON Wrexham (Wales)
Tues 12/9
Llangollen, ON Bala
Wed 13/9
Scenic railway Bala, Barmouth, ON Pwllheli (don't ask how you pronounce that)
Thurs 14/9
Caernarfon, Snowdonia NP, ON Caernarfon
Fri 15/9
Bangor, Anglesey, Hollyhead, ON Bangor
Sat 16/9
Conwyn, ON Chester (England)
Sun 17/9
Chester, Leeds, ON Yorkshire Dales
Mon 18/9
Scenic Rail, ON Keswick
Tues 19/9
Lakes District, ON Keswick
Wed 20/9
Carlisle, Hexham, Hadrians Wall
Thurs 21/9
ON Carlisle
Fri 22/9
Carlisle to Oban, ON Oban
Sat 23/9
Isle of Mull, ON Oban (Fri & Sat a bit dodgy at present this may change)
Sun 24/9
Oban to Fort William, ON Fort Willliam
Mon 25/9
Glencoe, ON Fort William
Tues 26/9
Fort Augustus and Loch Ness, ON Fort William
Wed 27/9
Steam train to Mallaig, Isle of Skye, ON Portree
Thur 28/9
Isle of Skye, ON Portree
Fri 29/9
Kyleakin to Inverness, ON Inverness
Sat 30/9
Culrain, ON in a CASTLE!!!!!
Sun 1/10
Castle to Inverness, Edinburgh, ON Edinburgh
Mon 2/10
Edinburgh
Tues 3/10
St Andrews, Fishing Villages, ON Edinburgh
Wed 4/10
Edinburgh, Durham, ON York
Thur 5/10
York, ON Cambridge
Fri 6/10
Cambridge, ON Cantebury
Sat 7/10
Cantebury, Dover, ferry to Calais (France)
That's it for now. Subject to change. Subject to conditions. Subject to timetables, weather and ££. Cheers.
I spent some time today working out an itinerary for the next four weeks or so. Basically I've had 4 days in London, I've got 14 days in England outside London, 5 days in Wales and 12 days in Scotland. I am doing pretty well but I'm going to be pushing some days and really could do with another day in Wales.
Here goes...
Wed 6/9
(England) Salisbury, ON Exeter
Thurs 7/9
Dartmore, ON Tintagel
Fri 8/9
Tintagel to Bath, ON Bath
Sat 9/9
Bath, ON Oxford
Sun 10/9
Blenheim Palace, ON Stratford Upon Avon
Mon 11/9
Stratford UA, Shrewsbury, ON Wrexham (Wales)
Tues 12/9
Llangollen, ON Bala
Wed 13/9
Scenic railway Bala, Barmouth, ON Pwllheli (don't ask how you pronounce that)
Thurs 14/9
Caernarfon, Snowdonia NP, ON Caernarfon
Fri 15/9
Bangor, Anglesey, Hollyhead, ON Bangor
Sat 16/9
Conwyn, ON Chester (England)
Sun 17/9
Chester, Leeds, ON Yorkshire Dales
Mon 18/9
Scenic Rail, ON Keswick
Tues 19/9
Lakes District, ON Keswick
Wed 20/9
Carlisle, Hexham, Hadrians Wall
Thurs 21/9
ON Carlisle
Fri 22/9
Carlisle to Oban, ON Oban
Sat 23/9
Isle of Mull, ON Oban (Fri & Sat a bit dodgy at present this may change)
Sun 24/9
Oban to Fort William, ON Fort Willliam
Mon 25/9
Glencoe, ON Fort William
Tues 26/9
Fort Augustus and Loch Ness, ON Fort William
Wed 27/9
Steam train to Mallaig, Isle of Skye, ON Portree
Thur 28/9
Isle of Skye, ON Portree
Fri 29/9
Kyleakin to Inverness, ON Inverness
Sat 30/9
Culrain, ON in a CASTLE!!!!!
Sun 1/10
Castle to Inverness, Edinburgh, ON Edinburgh
Mon 2/10
Edinburgh
Tues 3/10
St Andrews, Fishing Villages, ON Edinburgh
Wed 4/10
Edinburgh, Durham, ON York
Thur 5/10
York, ON Cambridge
Fri 6/10
Cambridge, ON Cantebury
Sat 7/10
Cantebury, Dover, ferry to Calais (France)
That's it for now. Subject to change. Subject to conditions. Subject to timetables, weather and ££. Cheers.
Tuesday 5 September
Yahoo Blog readers!...I've caught up! It's Tuesday night and I'm writing about Tuesday....
Now I'm going to tell you why people LOVE London. What a bustling, bright, alive city. It never sleeps, you can shop, eat, do theatre, etc til you drop. I hit Trafalgar Square this evening about 4.30pm on a late Summer day of about 25c (again), the sky was clear, the sun was soft and warm, there were crowds enjoying the fountains, statues standing out in the clear air framing the spires of Westminster and Big Ben at the end of Whithall Road. Honking black taxis, a liquorice alsorts collection of people and cultures, incredible!...The architecture, a mix of pre-victorian, Victorian, Edwardian and Modern, people pouring into and out of tube station 'holes'...WOW
London has a community PR campaign happening at the moment - probably the result of the bombings last year - very clever. There are light pole banners EVERYWHERE that declare 'We are Londoners' - or otherwise read as 'We are one'. Nothing stops them. I spoke to a guy who commutes into London each day and the only thing that has chaged for him and his colleagues is that they don't commute daily anymore they concentrate their need to be in London and work from home the other days - their companies support this as it keeps them off the trains, tube, and streets - so they have benefited from these bombs and have better lives for it.
I must say though, I can't understand the logic of anyone that their God or any God would think it is good to kill people - bombed, terrorised (or in war for that matter). They seem to hurt their own people more that the targets. Here in London or in Bali it is the same...
Went to Kew Gardens and Palace today. I could live in Kew. What a lovely place - obviously the Royal family thought so too. Had a quick look in a real estate window - 3 bed unit in an Edwardian house - sit down - £595,000. Holy Dooley....
Took stacks of photos at the gardens. There was about 1/2 acre of rose gardens. Boy can the English grow roses. I wish I could capture the smell - devine. There is not much that grows in Britain that we don't grow somewhere in Oz. I did get some very interesting shots of miniture pine cones and what I think might be immature chestnuts.
Also visited Kew Palace. 400+ years old and literally closed up for the last 200 years after George 3 died. Only opened to the public for the first time from last April after massive restoration. But the interesting thing was how they had left parts unrestored and other parts taken back to 1600's version, some 1700's and some 1800's. Fascinating to see how this stately home had changed over the centuries. The next stage is to restore the kitchens and start using them again cooking authentic period foods. Would love to try that...
Kew had follies, peacocks, flowering holly, hibiscus, everlasting daisies, bananas (ooohhh I wanted to steal one...)
London is incredibly costly to live in and because of this the diet has been very stodgy here - lots of bread, and dairy. Even the Chinese and Indian food is protein based and I'm sure MSG. And - you can still smoke in restaurants here! Could kill for some fresh veges. Hope to rediscover these once out of London. My YHA bed includes breakfast so I've been having hard boiled egg on toast and yogurt and coffee for bfast and taking extra bread, cheese, muffin and apple away with me for lunch and snacks. And dinners in the £5 bracket are stodgy. Maccas you can get a cheese burger for £1, a steakhouse steak is about £14 and a counter meal in a pub about £8. Multiply by 2.5 for $ and you can see why it's expensive. The tube is £5/day - which is pretty good value if you use it as your main mode of transport.
Yahoo Blog readers!...I've caught up! It's Tuesday night and I'm writing about Tuesday....
Now I'm going to tell you why people LOVE London. What a bustling, bright, alive city. It never sleeps, you can shop, eat, do theatre, etc til you drop. I hit Trafalgar Square this evening about 4.30pm on a late Summer day of about 25c (again), the sky was clear, the sun was soft and warm, there were crowds enjoying the fountains, statues standing out in the clear air framing the spires of Westminster and Big Ben at the end of Whithall Road. Honking black taxis, a liquorice alsorts collection of people and cultures, incredible!...The architecture, a mix of pre-victorian, Victorian, Edwardian and Modern, people pouring into and out of tube station 'holes'...WOW
London has a community PR campaign happening at the moment - probably the result of the bombings last year - very clever. There are light pole banners EVERYWHERE that declare 'We are Londoners' - or otherwise read as 'We are one'. Nothing stops them. I spoke to a guy who commutes into London each day and the only thing that has chaged for him and his colleagues is that they don't commute daily anymore they concentrate their need to be in London and work from home the other days - their companies support this as it keeps them off the trains, tube, and streets - so they have benefited from these bombs and have better lives for it.
I must say though, I can't understand the logic of anyone that their God or any God would think it is good to kill people - bombed, terrorised (or in war for that matter). They seem to hurt their own people more that the targets. Here in London or in Bali it is the same...
Went to Kew Gardens and Palace today. I could live in Kew. What a lovely place - obviously the Royal family thought so too. Had a quick look in a real estate window - 3 bed unit in an Edwardian house - sit down - £595,000. Holy Dooley....
Took stacks of photos at the gardens. There was about 1/2 acre of rose gardens. Boy can the English grow roses. I wish I could capture the smell - devine. There is not much that grows in Britain that we don't grow somewhere in Oz. I did get some very interesting shots of miniture pine cones and what I think might be immature chestnuts.
Also visited Kew Palace. 400+ years old and literally closed up for the last 200 years after George 3 died. Only opened to the public for the first time from last April after massive restoration. But the interesting thing was how they had left parts unrestored and other parts taken back to 1600's version, some 1700's and some 1800's. Fascinating to see how this stately home had changed over the centuries. The next stage is to restore the kitchens and start using them again cooking authentic period foods. Would love to try that...
Kew had follies, peacocks, flowering holly, hibiscus, everlasting daisies, bananas (ooohhh I wanted to steal one...)
London is incredibly costly to live in and because of this the diet has been very stodgy here - lots of bread, and dairy. Even the Chinese and Indian food is protein based and I'm sure MSG. And - you can still smoke in restaurants here! Could kill for some fresh veges. Hope to rediscover these once out of London. My YHA bed includes breakfast so I've been having hard boiled egg on toast and yogurt and coffee for bfast and taking extra bread, cheese, muffin and apple away with me for lunch and snacks. And dinners in the £5 bracket are stodgy. Maccas you can get a cheese burger for £1, a steakhouse steak is about £14 and a counter meal in a pub about £8. Multiply by 2.5 for $ and you can see why it's expensive. The tube is £5/day - which is pretty good value if you use it as your main mode of transport.
Monday, September 04, 2006
Sunday 3 Sept
Sunday was a magical day. Fantastic weather. About 25c and clear blue skies. Picture-postcard. Started the day at the Matins service at St Paul's Cathedral - the cheapest way to see inside. Cost me a pound donation. Then headed for a long walk across 'London City' - the banking district - to the Tower of London. What a fantastic place. Took lots of photos. And the tour guides were wonderful. Beefeaters - all army guys with 25+ years active service, now living at the Tower and managing it. Knew their stuff! Our guide said he was tested every day for 6months when he first got the job. Watch out Savannah Guides! You've got quality chasing you!
There were two guided tours, two different roving performances, and about 10 different sections to explore including the Crown Jewels and the White Tower, where the kings of England used to live and all the prisoners different towers. Public beheadings make R-rated movies today look like fairy stories. What violent times!
Saw the real thing of Henry x111 and his horses armour. They were big people then - shrunk later when the diets became more carbs rather than protein - and only just growing again now. He was 6'2" and carried 100lb of armour and his horse had to carry all that plus it's own 100+ lb of armour. No wonder they rode Dressier Stallions!
I was at The Tower from 12 til 6pm and could have stayed longer....anyway walked then to Whitechapel Rd (of Monopoly fame) and Petticoat Lane and there's a place called Brick Lane there that is about a mile long and is lined both sides with curry houses toating for business. Had 3 courses of Bangladeshi curry for tea for a whole £6. This area is the only bit of London that was dodgy. Not Brick Lane but the area around.
Joined another London Walk this night - Ghosts of old London. Lots of churchyards, narrow lanes, stories of the Plague and Great London Fire. Hey Hunter - I went down Diagon Alley - and got photos! Got back to St Pauls about 9.30pm knackered after being on my feet since 7am.
Monday 4 September
Well know I know why people DON'T like London...aagghhh...started the day well with some forward travel planning and a visit to the Globe Theatre for a tour and exhibition sticky beak. Got to the Globe Theatre walking across the Millenium Bridge from St Pauls - very scenic. Sat on the river wall at Bank Side and ate my cheese sandwich and apple. All well so far and then caught the tube - mind the gap - to Charing Cross.
Well, the plan was a quick trip to the post office to post some stuff home, then to the book exchange to get rid of a heavy book I had finished reading and then some time at the National Gallery. The post office took and hour and $15 to post next to nothing. Their are no book exchanges as we know them in Britain and the 2nd hand book stores don't buy 1's. And then there was a bomb scare at the National Gallery and I had to walk miles to get around it - and missed the Gallery. But I do know what a UK police siren sounds like now. Ullo, Ullo, Ullo, what's go'n on 'ere then....
Went and found a quiet arcade (the Opera Arcade) off Regent St, bought a big mug of Cappucino from a porteguse cafe and spent 3hrs doing more plans instead.
Finished the day well when I caught up with Leigh Sorensen for a Chinese banquet in China Town off Leicester Sqr. His shout - bless him - or I could never have eaten so well! News for those who know Leigh...he started work Tues 5/9 at TA. He's looking for real estate so he's got wealth to bring back in 3 years when the contract finishes and he brings his beautiful £ back as $. Kate gets to London soon. And he's hoping the TA office isn't too manic as he'd like a slow start to this new chapter - he hasn't caught his breath from the last chapter yet!
Sunday was a magical day. Fantastic weather. About 25c and clear blue skies. Picture-postcard. Started the day at the Matins service at St Paul's Cathedral - the cheapest way to see inside. Cost me a pound donation. Then headed for a long walk across 'London City' - the banking district - to the Tower of London. What a fantastic place. Took lots of photos. And the tour guides were wonderful. Beefeaters - all army guys with 25+ years active service, now living at the Tower and managing it. Knew their stuff! Our guide said he was tested every day for 6months when he first got the job. Watch out Savannah Guides! You've got quality chasing you!
There were two guided tours, two different roving performances, and about 10 different sections to explore including the Crown Jewels and the White Tower, where the kings of England used to live and all the prisoners different towers. Public beheadings make R-rated movies today look like fairy stories. What violent times!
Saw the real thing of Henry x111 and his horses armour. They were big people then - shrunk later when the diets became more carbs rather than protein - and only just growing again now. He was 6'2" and carried 100lb of armour and his horse had to carry all that plus it's own 100+ lb of armour. No wonder they rode Dressier Stallions!
I was at The Tower from 12 til 6pm and could have stayed longer....anyway walked then to Whitechapel Rd (of Monopoly fame) and Petticoat Lane and there's a place called Brick Lane there that is about a mile long and is lined both sides with curry houses toating for business. Had 3 courses of Bangladeshi curry for tea for a whole £6. This area is the only bit of London that was dodgy. Not Brick Lane but the area around.
Joined another London Walk this night - Ghosts of old London. Lots of churchyards, narrow lanes, stories of the Plague and Great London Fire. Hey Hunter - I went down Diagon Alley - and got photos! Got back to St Pauls about 9.30pm knackered after being on my feet since 7am.
Monday 4 September
Well know I know why people DON'T like London...aagghhh...started the day well with some forward travel planning and a visit to the Globe Theatre for a tour and exhibition sticky beak. Got to the Globe Theatre walking across the Millenium Bridge from St Pauls - very scenic. Sat on the river wall at Bank Side and ate my cheese sandwich and apple. All well so far and then caught the tube - mind the gap - to Charing Cross.
Well, the plan was a quick trip to the post office to post some stuff home, then to the book exchange to get rid of a heavy book I had finished reading and then some time at the National Gallery. The post office took and hour and $15 to post next to nothing. Their are no book exchanges as we know them in Britain and the 2nd hand book stores don't buy 1's. And then there was a bomb scare at the National Gallery and I had to walk miles to get around it - and missed the Gallery. But I do know what a UK police siren sounds like now. Ullo, Ullo, Ullo, what's go'n on 'ere then....
Went and found a quiet arcade (the Opera Arcade) off Regent St, bought a big mug of Cappucino from a porteguse cafe and spent 3hrs doing more plans instead.
Finished the day well when I caught up with Leigh Sorensen for a Chinese banquet in China Town off Leicester Sqr. His shout - bless him - or I could never have eaten so well! News for those who know Leigh...he started work Tues 5/9 at TA. He's looking for real estate so he's got wealth to bring back in 3 years when the contract finishes and he brings his beautiful £ back as $. Kate gets to London soon. And he's hoping the TA office isn't too manic as he'd like a slow start to this new chapter - he hasn't caught his breath from the last chapter yet!
Saturday 2 September
St Pauls clock woke me at 6am with 6 chimes - still haven't worked out if the bells don't toll after 10pm and before 6am - I either sleep heavy or they don't chime...
Hit the road Jack...didn't waste any time, showered had a good breakfast - kept some cheese, muffin and an apple for lunch, and headed out for adventure...
I'm staying in a YHA that used to the the choir school of St Pauls. Very clean and lovely old building - it is 8 flights of stairs to my floor and dorm - 10 if I go down to the basement first to wash or store anything - I'll get strong calf muscles!!
London has been having great weather and it has held for me - I walked from the tube to the hostel at midnight on my arrival in just t-shirt and slacks. Saturday was overcast and cool but my new red jacket was just right. I joined a 'London Walk' - have done before and they are great - of Shakespeare's London - saw all sorts of old London from the late 1500's to mid 1600's. The farmers markets under Southwark Bridge could be medieval - fantastic fresh produce and food stalls - a huge Rusty's under the arches of the Bridge. Saw all the sites like Westminster, Big Ben, London Eye, had a boat trip down the river, London Boys School, the bridges - even relearned the London Bridge vs Tower Bridge. Ended up at the Globe Theatre and in and around it. Fantastic guide brought this time back to life. After the tour got lost around the city - found an internet cafe, etc.
St Pauls clock woke me at 6am with 6 chimes - still haven't worked out if the bells don't toll after 10pm and before 6am - I either sleep heavy or they don't chime...
Hit the road Jack...didn't waste any time, showered had a good breakfast - kept some cheese, muffin and an apple for lunch, and headed out for adventure...
I'm staying in a YHA that used to the the choir school of St Pauls. Very clean and lovely old building - it is 8 flights of stairs to my floor and dorm - 10 if I go down to the basement first to wash or store anything - I'll get strong calf muscles!!
London has been having great weather and it has held for me - I walked from the tube to the hostel at midnight on my arrival in just t-shirt and slacks. Saturday was overcast and cool but my new red jacket was just right. I joined a 'London Walk' - have done before and they are great - of Shakespeare's London - saw all sorts of old London from the late 1500's to mid 1600's. The farmers markets under Southwark Bridge could be medieval - fantastic fresh produce and food stalls - a huge Rusty's under the arches of the Bridge. Saw all the sites like Westminster, Big Ben, London Eye, had a boat trip down the river, London Boys School, the bridges - even relearned the London Bridge vs Tower Bridge. Ended up at the Globe Theatre and in and around it. Fantastic guide brought this time back to life. After the tour got lost around the city - found an internet cafe, etc.
1 September 2006
This was a very long day....up at 6am to get ready for 7am check in at the airport for a 9am flight Bali to London via Hong Kong. Only worry this morning was I got to the airport with my 20,000RP departure tax - the only local currency I had left - and found out the departure tax was in fact 100,000RP. Quick trip back out through security to an ATM...
Away on time and had a great seat on the plane - first row of economy window with no-one beside me. 5hrs to Hong Kong in the same time zone. Had less than an hour in HK. Filthy, polluted air and even more developed - if that is possible - than when I was there last in 92. I suppose that is 15 years ago....mmm...oh well can't be fab40 and not have some history...
Left HK 3pm for 13 hour flight to London. Same seat again without neighbour. Thank God! Time zone change meant I arrived in London 9pm on 1/9. And true to form took 2hrs to get through Heathrow immigration/customs. Interestingly no-one even stopped us in quarantine or did a security bag check. What a human 'hot pot' coming through the 'alien' gate. Every colour, language, age, dress, culture. And the only impatient ones were the Sith Efricans and the Yanks.
By the time I got to my Hostel next door to St Pauls Cathedral it was 1am. 26hours on the road and boy was I grubby!
This was a very long day....up at 6am to get ready for 7am check in at the airport for a 9am flight Bali to London via Hong Kong. Only worry this morning was I got to the airport with my 20,000RP departure tax - the only local currency I had left - and found out the departure tax was in fact 100,000RP. Quick trip back out through security to an ATM...
Away on time and had a great seat on the plane - first row of economy window with no-one beside me. 5hrs to Hong Kong in the same time zone. Had less than an hour in HK. Filthy, polluted air and even more developed - if that is possible - than when I was there last in 92. I suppose that is 15 years ago....mmm...oh well can't be fab40 and not have some history...
Left HK 3pm for 13 hour flight to London. Same seat again without neighbour. Thank God! Time zone change meant I arrived in London 9pm on 1/9. And true to form took 2hrs to get through Heathrow immigration/customs. Interestingly no-one even stopped us in quarantine or did a security bag check. What a human 'hot pot' coming through the 'alien' gate. Every colour, language, age, dress, culture. And the only impatient ones were the Sith Efricans and the Yanks.
By the time I got to my Hostel next door to St Pauls Cathedral it was 1am. 26hours on the road and boy was I grubby!
Beautiful flowers and animals
We saw some great colours in the butterflies and flowers - lotus flowers, orchids and lilies. Bowls of flowers, arranged petals, etc. They are used in worship all the time and you buy 'lots and lots' for 5000 RP (about $1) at the market. Will have to wait to see the pics
Eating - yum!
Had some great meals - but the best were from the local Warung (cafe). Got a few shots. Eating at the Warungs cost us about $1.50 - $2.50 a meal and they tasted so much better than restaurant food. But don't look too closely at the food prep or conditions - just make sure the food has been cooked at a high temperature and you get it FRESH! You should see the kitchen at the best Warung - no more complaining about your old kitchen Di!
We treated ourselves on the last night and went to dinner at a European fine dining and entertainment establishement called KuDeTa in outer Kuta. Why isn't there one in CNS/Palm Cove. With all the Balanese imports into north Qld you'd think we'd have copied this one! Great food - expensive even by oz$ standards but on a magnificent site with great service and atmosphere. One of the reviews said it was Asia's answer to Cafe Del Mar - and I would agree. THANK YOU Julie/Rod/Catrina/Jaimelle for insisting we do this. Watch out CNS I just might come back and work out how to pull this off at home....
At last we leave Bali
The first week is over, we collect our tailored clothes, find Tammy's lost camera, and fly on to the next adventure...(ask Tammy about the Camera - in fact Julie ask Santika about Tammy next time you're there I'm sure they won't have forgotten the Oz lady who lost her camera either - poor girl)
We saw some great colours in the butterflies and flowers - lotus flowers, orchids and lilies. Bowls of flowers, arranged petals, etc. They are used in worship all the time and you buy 'lots and lots' for 5000 RP (about $1) at the market. Will have to wait to see the pics
Eating - yum!
Had some great meals - but the best were from the local Warung (cafe). Got a few shots. Eating at the Warungs cost us about $1.50 - $2.50 a meal and they tasted so much better than restaurant food. But don't look too closely at the food prep or conditions - just make sure the food has been cooked at a high temperature and you get it FRESH! You should see the kitchen at the best Warung - no more complaining about your old kitchen Di!
We treated ourselves on the last night and went to dinner at a European fine dining and entertainment establishement called KuDeTa in outer Kuta. Why isn't there one in CNS/Palm Cove. With all the Balanese imports into north Qld you'd think we'd have copied this one! Great food - expensive even by oz$ standards but on a magnificent site with great service and atmosphere. One of the reviews said it was Asia's answer to Cafe Del Mar - and I would agree. THANK YOU Julie/Rod/Catrina/Jaimelle for insisting we do this. Watch out CNS I just might come back and work out how to pull this off at home....
At last we leave Bali
The first week is over, we collect our tailored clothes, find Tammy's lost camera, and fly on to the next adventure...(ask Tammy about the Camera - in fact Julie ask Santika about Tammy next time you're there I'm sure they won't have forgotten the Oz lady who lost her camera either - poor girl)
The Rice Story
As I said, we were living in a farming village where rice was the crop. Hunter and Maclean - you may be interested to see mum's pics of rice growing and being harvested. I have some of rice 'grass' in the paddies, close ups of the rice seeds/grains on the 'grass', rice being harvested, being threshed (that is the rice grains being banged off the 'grass'), winnowed (the grains being thrown in the air in a seive to use the breeze to separate the rice grain from the dust and other foreign materials). Then rice drying in the sun on the footpath being readied for husking. I' ve also got shots of the ducks in the paddies.
Great view from a restaurant
Already forgotten the name of the restaurant. But went to this great place further along the gorge to us. The European owner had built this fantastic restaurant over looking a world class view - especially late afternoon. We had a lovely meal and took some atmospheric shots of the early eveing over the gorge and of the mountains. Tammy signed up for a cooking school at this place - it has a sister restuarant in Ubud. Cheated to keep the cost down and snuck our own gin in (in plastic water bottles - cheaky I know) - added to their soda water and lime and presto!
Crocodile Geckos
If you think our geckos are big - wait it you meet the Bali ones - we nicknamed them snappy lizards. They are at least as long as your hand and about half as wide as your hand. Look like a gecko but with red spots. Very pretty but aggressive and they bark a bit like a quack. Tammy thought she'd try and touch one and he bit her - hence the nickname. Didn't break the skin but gave us both a fright. They ran up the walls and ate insects but jeaz - Iwouldn't want one ofthem to fall into my hear or jump on my bed in he night - you'd hear me all the way back in OZ!
Markets
There were lots and lots of markets and I had to get back into the bargaining swing. Bit rusty but we started doing well towards the end. Took turns at playing good-cop and bad-cop. Sometimes we won and sometimes we lost but even then we still did better than home. Makes Rusty's look like a Hilton!!
28 August 2006
Tradional Dance performance
Went to a traditional dance show tonight after grabbing some Balanese/Indian takeaway. This was interesting and the costumes were very Thai looking. Lots of gold and detail. Very beautiful. All the 'good' characters were played by women/girls and boys and all the 'bad guys' were played by men. Excellent characterisation by the baddies - as monkeys, sultans, etc. The monkey characters were particularly good. All performed in the dark around a lit candle tree out side a temple. The village that put it on use the whole community (there are only 700 residents) and the chorus (all male) had great vocal percussion - the guy who kept the beat would have been a tremendous didge player with his breath control.
As I said, we were living in a farming village where rice was the crop. Hunter and Maclean - you may be interested to see mum's pics of rice growing and being harvested. I have some of rice 'grass' in the paddies, close ups of the rice seeds/grains on the 'grass', rice being harvested, being threshed (that is the rice grains being banged off the 'grass'), winnowed (the grains being thrown in the air in a seive to use the breeze to separate the rice grain from the dust and other foreign materials). Then rice drying in the sun on the footpath being readied for husking. I' ve also got shots of the ducks in the paddies.
Great view from a restaurant
Already forgotten the name of the restaurant. But went to this great place further along the gorge to us. The European owner had built this fantastic restaurant over looking a world class view - especially late afternoon. We had a lovely meal and took some atmospheric shots of the early eveing over the gorge and of the mountains. Tammy signed up for a cooking school at this place - it has a sister restuarant in Ubud. Cheated to keep the cost down and snuck our own gin in (in plastic water bottles - cheaky I know) - added to their soda water and lime and presto!
Crocodile Geckos
If you think our geckos are big - wait it you meet the Bali ones - we nicknamed them snappy lizards. They are at least as long as your hand and about half as wide as your hand. Look like a gecko but with red spots. Very pretty but aggressive and they bark a bit like a quack. Tammy thought she'd try and touch one and he bit her - hence the nickname. Didn't break the skin but gave us both a fright. They ran up the walls and ate insects but jeaz - Iwouldn't want one ofthem to fall into my hear or jump on my bed in he night - you'd hear me all the way back in OZ!
Markets
There were lots and lots of markets and I had to get back into the bargaining swing. Bit rusty but we started doing well towards the end. Took turns at playing good-cop and bad-cop. Sometimes we won and sometimes we lost but even then we still did better than home. Makes Rusty's look like a Hilton!!
28 August 2006
Tradional Dance performance
Went to a traditional dance show tonight after grabbing some Balanese/Indian takeaway. This was interesting and the costumes were very Thai looking. Lots of gold and detail. Very beautiful. All the 'good' characters were played by women/girls and boys and all the 'bad guys' were played by men. Excellent characterisation by the baddies - as monkeys, sultans, etc. The monkey characters were particularly good. All performed in the dark around a lit candle tree out side a temple. The village that put it on use the whole community (there are only 700 residents) and the chorus (all male) had great vocal percussion - the guy who kept the beat would have been a tremendous didge player with his breath control.
Saturday, September 02, 2006
Sunday 27 August
Following on from my comments on village life...
The local school was at the end of the lane we lived off. It consists of three brick buildings forming a u-shaped quadrangle facing the main street. All the kids wear uniforms and can't go unless they've got one. All the kids seem pretty keen to be at school.
They attend 6 days a week from 7am til 12.30pm and then go home for lunch and to help their families and do their homework. When we walked into the village to look around the kids were dead keen to talk to use practising their 'hello' 'goodmorning' where are you from'. They loved beiung in pictures and seeing themselves on the preview screen. They had lots of laughs at themselves.
Most of the kids unfortunately had bad tooth decay even in their little teeth. Sugar is amajor ingredient in their foods. As is oil cooked foods. But they have such small portions they are not overwieght.
One morning all the kids were out helping their teacher sweep the road and weed in front of the school. Also, when I walked by at morning break their was a vendor selling egg whipped and fried on to sticks. He also sold coconut milk drinks - coconut flavoured pink milk in plastic bags insead of tetra paks. - that's take away...
Following on from my comments on village life...
The local school was at the end of the lane we lived off. It consists of three brick buildings forming a u-shaped quadrangle facing the main street. All the kids wear uniforms and can't go unless they've got one. All the kids seem pretty keen to be at school.
They attend 6 days a week from 7am til 12.30pm and then go home for lunch and to help their families and do their homework. When we walked into the village to look around the kids were dead keen to talk to use practising their 'hello' 'goodmorning' where are you from'. They loved beiung in pictures and seeing themselves on the preview screen. They had lots of laughs at themselves.
Most of the kids unfortunately had bad tooth decay even in their little teeth. Sugar is amajor ingredient in their foods. As is oil cooked foods. But they have such small portions they are not overwieght.
One morning all the kids were out helping their teacher sweep the road and weed in front of the school. Also, when I walked by at morning break their was a vendor selling egg whipped and fried on to sticks. He also sold coconut milk drinks - coconut flavoured pink milk in plastic bags insead of tetra paks. - that's take away...
Sat 26 August
Waking up this morning was an amazing experience. Remember last night we arrived in the pitch dark...
I need to set the scene...
The village we are staying in is 5 minutes drive from Ubud (a touristified artisans township) up in the mountains 1 hour drive from Kuta/Denpasar. It is a rural village where they grow rice, 'water spinach', ducks and chooks. Mostly for their own use but if there is anything left over I expect they trade/sell it.
Our house was extememly posh by Balanese locals standards but pretty basic as far as European 'holiday homes' go.
Our house was surrounded by rice paddies on three sides and over looked a deep gorge and mountain side at the front. It was 2 story - the upstairs was our bedroom and downstairs was a 'living' room and bathroom and outdoor verandah.
So...we woke up to ducks quacking and the incesant clonk, clonk, clonk (of a wind powered bird frightener in the rice paddy we found out later). Looking out the windows all around the upstairs I was struck by the feeling of being transported to another time and place (place certainly, but it is 2006 here too). There were women out in the paddies harvesting rice, men shepherding ducks in the harvested paddocks to clean out the left rice and naturally fertilise the paddocks, there was a chook and her chickens clucking and scratching in our little garden.
When I went down Wayan was putting ceremonial gifts out in the garden temple for her gods - the balanese do this everyday to bless their every activity. They are very devout Hindus and have many ceremonies with gifts to the gods of varying opulance. Even the cars have a little offering put in them everyday to bless them for safe travel (a nice thought considering the madnesson their roads - motor bikes, trucks, vans everywhere).
I am summerising the Village life here. I learned so much just from watching and listening. In my opinion they are lovely people down troden by corruption of the system. They work hard everyday. There is no such thing as a weekend. And they live well below any poverty line we wish to set - and still have a fantastic positive outlook on life. They know they are poor - they see westerners everyday, and have TV to see how other Indonesians live...
In our village area our host probably had the only inside toilet. Not sure if they had a shower...They had a lovely kitchen but just one small room for 4 people to sleep in and their living space was under the tank stand. They were very well off as far as cleanliness and resources. Most Balanese live in family compounds. I certainly didn't see inside a posh one - although we did pass someon our travels. But the compounds around us were dirt with 3-4 one-room huts. The cooking was done on communal fires , they washed in the creek/storm water drain/ sewer. There was no plumbing - although there seemed to be electricity for basic lighting.
The 'creek' was the centre of their existance. They washed themselves, their clothes, the slaughtered ducks were plucked and cleaned in the creek, we even saw kids going to the toilet in the creek...and they drank and cooked with that water too. mmm...needless to say we drank bottled water.
Running out of time on the internet so will continue later...
Waking up this morning was an amazing experience. Remember last night we arrived in the pitch dark...
I need to set the scene...
The village we are staying in is 5 minutes drive from Ubud (a touristified artisans township) up in the mountains 1 hour drive from Kuta/Denpasar. It is a rural village where they grow rice, 'water spinach', ducks and chooks. Mostly for their own use but if there is anything left over I expect they trade/sell it.
Our house was extememly posh by Balanese locals standards but pretty basic as far as European 'holiday homes' go.
Our house was surrounded by rice paddies on three sides and over looked a deep gorge and mountain side at the front. It was 2 story - the upstairs was our bedroom and downstairs was a 'living' room and bathroom and outdoor verandah.
So...we woke up to ducks quacking and the incesant clonk, clonk, clonk (of a wind powered bird frightener in the rice paddy we found out later). Looking out the windows all around the upstairs I was struck by the feeling of being transported to another time and place (place certainly, but it is 2006 here too). There were women out in the paddies harvesting rice, men shepherding ducks in the harvested paddocks to clean out the left rice and naturally fertilise the paddocks, there was a chook and her chickens clucking and scratching in our little garden.
When I went down Wayan was putting ceremonial gifts out in the garden temple for her gods - the balanese do this everyday to bless their every activity. They are very devout Hindus and have many ceremonies with gifts to the gods of varying opulance. Even the cars have a little offering put in them everyday to bless them for safe travel (a nice thought considering the madnesson their roads - motor bikes, trucks, vans everywhere).
I am summerising the Village life here. I learned so much just from watching and listening. In my opinion they are lovely people down troden by corruption of the system. They work hard everyday. There is no such thing as a weekend. And they live well below any poverty line we wish to set - and still have a fantastic positive outlook on life. They know they are poor - they see westerners everyday, and have TV to see how other Indonesians live...
In our village area our host probably had the only inside toilet. Not sure if they had a shower...They had a lovely kitchen but just one small room for 4 people to sleep in and their living space was under the tank stand. They were very well off as far as cleanliness and resources. Most Balanese live in family compounds. I certainly didn't see inside a posh one - although we did pass someon our travels. But the compounds around us were dirt with 3-4 one-room huts. The cooking was done on communal fires , they washed in the creek/storm water drain/ sewer. There was no plumbing - although there seemed to be electricity for basic lighting.
The 'creek' was the centre of their existance. They washed themselves, their clothes, the slaughtered ducks were plucked and cleaned in the creek, we even saw kids going to the toilet in the creek...and they drank and cooked with that water too. mmm...needless to say we drank bottled water.
Running out of time on the internet so will continue later...
Ok, here we go...
I'm in London now. It's Saturday afternoon their time (nearly dawn Sunday morning in CNS). But I'd better go back and start from the beginning. Getting on the web before now has been difficult...
Thurs 24 Aug
Left CNS at 1pm for Darwin. Arrived there at 3pm and had the afternoon and evening to explore as didn't need to be back at the airport til 9.30pm The first thing that struck me was how dry and dusty Darwin was and they DO speak with a different accent. We went straight into town and had a wander. Saw where I used to work and some of the landmarks. The city itsef seemed shabbier...Tammy and I collected some supplies and made our way onto the Esplanade where we enjoyed a cold Stones Ginger Beer and cheese and crackers watching the afternoon sun drop over the Arafura Sea - such a pretty teal blue - I had forgotten...
Funny thing happened...we couldn't get the tops off our bottles (not screw caps) and Tammy approached this tourist for a pen knife (hopefully with a bottle opener on it) and he takes off his thong and built into the bottom of the thong was a bottle opener!! Only in Darwin!!
Once we were refreshed we headed along the Esplanade and stopped at various points to take pics (sorry haven't worked out how to down load yet) and then continued along to Mindle Beach and the markets. About a 3km walk. We were very lucky it was market night. FANTASTIC. Bigger and better than I remember even. We watched the most intense sunset from the Diamond Beach Casino front lawn on the beach and then wandered down the sand to the markets.
Every concievable art, craft, food stall and performer. From every corner of the world. Tammy had the hottest Coconut Chilli salad - poor girl had more than tears in her eyes. It took us 3 hours to do a complete lap. We then headed back to the airport. And on to the OS holiday.
Fri 25 August
Arrived in Bali right on midnight. They are on the same time as Perth and Hong Kong. So no jet lag. Thanks Julie for insisting we stay at Hotel Santika Beach. Highly recommend it and yes, the breakfast was a highlight. The Indonesian dishes were some of the best we experienced (in hindsight) and definately the best peanut sauce!
Headed into Kuta, had a sticky beak around - very dirty and shabby but similar climate to Cairns. Kuta Beach was nice and deep and shady but too many touts...we did the visit to the Tailor and ordered our copy clothes and then took off for the hills - literally. Didn't get to our village of Sanggingan outside Ubud til 8pm ish due to a combination of leaving Kuta late and some confusing directions. Our hostess Wayan made us feel very welcome and organised some fantastic local food from the local Wayung (cafe) for us.
I'm in London now. It's Saturday afternoon their time (nearly dawn Sunday morning in CNS). But I'd better go back and start from the beginning. Getting on the web before now has been difficult...
Thurs 24 Aug
Left CNS at 1pm for Darwin. Arrived there at 3pm and had the afternoon and evening to explore as didn't need to be back at the airport til 9.30pm The first thing that struck me was how dry and dusty Darwin was and they DO speak with a different accent. We went straight into town and had a wander. Saw where I used to work and some of the landmarks. The city itsef seemed shabbier...Tammy and I collected some supplies and made our way onto the Esplanade where we enjoyed a cold Stones Ginger Beer and cheese and crackers watching the afternoon sun drop over the Arafura Sea - such a pretty teal blue - I had forgotten...
Funny thing happened...we couldn't get the tops off our bottles (not screw caps) and Tammy approached this tourist for a pen knife (hopefully with a bottle opener on it) and he takes off his thong and built into the bottom of the thong was a bottle opener!! Only in Darwin!!
Once we were refreshed we headed along the Esplanade and stopped at various points to take pics (sorry haven't worked out how to down load yet) and then continued along to Mindle Beach and the markets. About a 3km walk. We were very lucky it was market night. FANTASTIC. Bigger and better than I remember even. We watched the most intense sunset from the Diamond Beach Casino front lawn on the beach and then wandered down the sand to the markets.
Every concievable art, craft, food stall and performer. From every corner of the world. Tammy had the hottest Coconut Chilli salad - poor girl had more than tears in her eyes. It took us 3 hours to do a complete lap. We then headed back to the airport. And on to the OS holiday.
Fri 25 August
Arrived in Bali right on midnight. They are on the same time as Perth and Hong Kong. So no jet lag. Thanks Julie for insisting we stay at Hotel Santika Beach. Highly recommend it and yes, the breakfast was a highlight. The Indonesian dishes were some of the best we experienced (in hindsight) and definately the best peanut sauce!
Headed into Kuta, had a sticky beak around - very dirty and shabby but similar climate to Cairns. Kuta Beach was nice and deep and shady but too many touts...we did the visit to the Tailor and ordered our copy clothes and then took off for the hills - literally. Didn't get to our village of Sanggingan outside Ubud til 8pm ish due to a combination of leaving Kuta late and some confusing directions. Our hostess Wayan made us feel very welcome and organised some fantastic local food from the local Wayung (cafe) for us.
