Monday, November 13, 2006
13 Nov FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD
Aria fed us the BEST stuffed zuccini (or small marrow) and an egg plant and tomato 'salsa' that you scooped up with pita. There were 2 different stuffings in the marrows - one rice and meat, the other rice and cheese. The meat one was served with a tomato soup and the cheese one with a lemon yogurt dipping sauce. I was out in the kitchen getting basic recipe directions but they use a ot of ghee and vege oil (like a cup full) so my efforts will probably not taste the same or as rich.
PISTACHIOS
Finally identified a Pistachio tree. Looks a bit like a cross between Avacado and Banyan trees. Pistachio fruit is red and grows in a bunch like grapes. The but is the seed and the green bit we eat is the kernel. The syrians use pistachio in everything - sweets, savoury, raw, roasted, mixed. You name it.
Aria fed us the BEST stuffed zuccini (or small marrow) and an egg plant and tomato 'salsa' that you scooped up with pita. There were 2 different stuffings in the marrows - one rice and meat, the other rice and cheese. The meat one was served with a tomato soup and the cheese one with a lemon yogurt dipping sauce. I was out in the kitchen getting basic recipe directions but they use a ot of ghee and vege oil (like a cup full) so my efforts will probably not taste the same or as rich.
PISTACHIOS
Finally identified a Pistachio tree. Looks a bit like a cross between Avacado and Banyan trees. Pistachio fruit is red and grows in a bunch like grapes. The but is the seed and the green bit we eat is the kernel. The syrians use pistachio in everything - sweets, savoury, raw, roasted, mixed. You name it.
11-12 Nov Aleppo Locals
The best part of visiting Aleppo was meeting the locals. We had lots of opportunities. Our leader Bruce has made friends over the last couple of years with a larger extended family of traders in the the main souk, whom he introduced us to. Hilarious guys with wicked senses of humour. 2 had just returned from 2 years in Sydney. They had missed the family support too much so came back. They seemed a relatively wealthy family with a number of stalls in the souk ensuring they didn't miss you. There are 9 brothers and 57 first cousins (oldest 28, youngest 6mths) in just the two generations we met.
The 2nd opportunity was a visit to the Hammam (or public bath house). Ladies day was Saturday so we trooped off, stripped off, sweated it out in the steam room, were scrubbed and rubbed and then relaxed with the local women where there were plenty of soft lounges, argeela water pipes and hot mint tea. Through the conversation Simone and I were invited to visit a local home.
Fantastic to meet and communicate with local women in their environment. They feel safe to communicate freely and openly. At the Hammam the women were really letting their hair down, singing and dancing, wearing very little, gossiping and releasing all the formality that restricts their lives daily.
Reham is 17 and lives with her motherAria and 1 unmarried brother, in the family home in a middle class suburb. Her father, an older sister and two brothers live and work in Hungary (this gives them valuable Euros to improve their standard of living). Two other brothers live in Aleppo and run the family 'supermarket'. Aria is 44 and was married at 15. her eldest child is 27 and Reham is the youngest at 17. She looks a lot older, although her life now is pretty good.
Reham has just gotten engaged to a 20yo man who works in Dubai as a mechanic. This marriage was arranged after an approach by another woman at the hammam (the mothers check out prospective daughters-in-law quite openly here - and why not). The two young ones were introduced said "yes he/she seems ok" and a bride price was negotiated. Reham wsa very proud that she was able to bring her family 500E worth of gold jewellery and a car for her eldest brother. The grooms family pay for the engagement and wedding and set up home for the couple.
Reham is like most 17yo and is very much in love with the idea and trappings of marriage. She has had parties and new dresses and presents, all of which she loves. She is a glamous girl with a lot of Rusian/ Hungarian fashion characteristics. She speaks good english and also german, hungarian and slovakian - in addition to Arabic. All her family speak German and the men also speak Hungarian/Slovakian.
The video we saw of her engagement party showed only women there (and Reham explained the men do not go to women's birthday parties or the engagement parties (there are several put on by different family members). And only men go to male birthday paties. They do have a mixed wedding. The groom did attend the engagement for a short period to give her gifts, dancing briefly with her and cutting a 5 tier cake. They will be engaged til next summer when they will marry and they will not kiss in this time. Reham really likes her new mother-in-law which is good because she will become part of his family and this lady will teach her to cook - not her own mother.
Reham and her mother do not wear hijab covers on their hair at home or in Hungary and only in public in Syria when it is easier to do so than put up with comments from other members of the public. Aria's sister called in while we were there and was wearing a full hijab so I think the Hungarian lifestyle has westernised them a lot.
The best part of visiting Aleppo was meeting the locals. We had lots of opportunities. Our leader Bruce has made friends over the last couple of years with a larger extended family of traders in the the main souk, whom he introduced us to. Hilarious guys with wicked senses of humour. 2 had just returned from 2 years in Sydney. They had missed the family support too much so came back. They seemed a relatively wealthy family with a number of stalls in the souk ensuring they didn't miss you. There are 9 brothers and 57 first cousins (oldest 28, youngest 6mths) in just the two generations we met.
The 2nd opportunity was a visit to the Hammam (or public bath house). Ladies day was Saturday so we trooped off, stripped off, sweated it out in the steam room, were scrubbed and rubbed and then relaxed with the local women where there were plenty of soft lounges, argeela water pipes and hot mint tea. Through the conversation Simone and I were invited to visit a local home.
Fantastic to meet and communicate with local women in their environment. They feel safe to communicate freely and openly. At the Hammam the women were really letting their hair down, singing and dancing, wearing very little, gossiping and releasing all the formality that restricts their lives daily.
Reham is 17 and lives with her motherAria and 1 unmarried brother, in the family home in a middle class suburb. Her father, an older sister and two brothers live and work in Hungary (this gives them valuable Euros to improve their standard of living). Two other brothers live in Aleppo and run the family 'supermarket'. Aria is 44 and was married at 15. her eldest child is 27 and Reham is the youngest at 17. She looks a lot older, although her life now is pretty good.
Reham has just gotten engaged to a 20yo man who works in Dubai as a mechanic. This marriage was arranged after an approach by another woman at the hammam (the mothers check out prospective daughters-in-law quite openly here - and why not). The two young ones were introduced said "yes he/she seems ok" and a bride price was negotiated. Reham wsa very proud that she was able to bring her family 500E worth of gold jewellery and a car for her eldest brother. The grooms family pay for the engagement and wedding and set up home for the couple.
Reham is like most 17yo and is very much in love with the idea and trappings of marriage. She has had parties and new dresses and presents, all of which she loves. She is a glamous girl with a lot of Rusian/ Hungarian fashion characteristics. She speaks good english and also german, hungarian and slovakian - in addition to Arabic. All her family speak German and the men also speak Hungarian/Slovakian.
The video we saw of her engagement party showed only women there (and Reham explained the men do not go to women's birthday parties or the engagement parties (there are several put on by different family members). And only men go to male birthday paties. They do have a mixed wedding. The groom did attend the engagement for a short period to give her gifts, dancing briefly with her and cutting a 5 tier cake. They will be engaged til next summer when they will marry and they will not kiss in this time. Reham really likes her new mother-in-law which is good because she will become part of his family and this lady will teach her to cook - not her own mother.
Reham and her mother do not wear hijab covers on their hair at home or in Hungary and only in public in Syria when it is easier to do so than put up with comments from other members of the public. Aria's sister called in while we were there and was wearing a full hijab so I think the Hungarian lifestyle has westernised them a lot.
11/12 Nov Aleppo and Souks
Arrived Aleppo mid afternoon. Staying in a funny hostel with great atmosphere and dodgy plumbing. Aleppo was the largest trading post on the silk road with huge souks. Did some shopping for Pashminas, great gold price especially in the Christian quarter (but saved my $ for Peruvian gold...) Found a fantastic restored inn now a boutique hotel. Had my first alcoholic drink in 7 weeks in an old, but now vrey tired, Agatha Christie haunt. Visited the citadel and walked miles in thge souks. Butchers, nut sellers, fabric, hardware, jewellery, fresh food, you name it. You could even buy sheeps head by the kilo - with teeth eyes, tongue all included. Did I mention in an earlier entry you buy whole beasts skinned but with either their tail or head still on to identify the type of meat you are buying. Camels and cows have their tail on. Sheep and goats have their heads on. No refrigeration but surprisingly no flies. Souks are very clean - not like in Asia.
Arrived Aleppo mid afternoon. Staying in a funny hostel with great atmosphere and dodgy plumbing. Aleppo was the largest trading post on the silk road with huge souks. Did some shopping for Pashminas, great gold price especially in the Christian quarter (but saved my $ for Peruvian gold...) Found a fantastic restored inn now a boutique hotel. Had my first alcoholic drink in 7 weeks in an old, but now vrey tired, Agatha Christie haunt. Visited the citadel and walked miles in thge souks. Butchers, nut sellers, fabric, hardware, jewellery, fresh food, you name it. You could even buy sheeps head by the kilo - with teeth eyes, tongue all included. Did I mention in an earlier entry you buy whole beasts skinned but with either their tail or head still on to identify the type of meat you are buying. Camels and cows have their tail on. Sheep and goats have their heads on. No refrigeration but surprisingly no flies. Souks are very clean - not like in Asia.
11 Nov Long day on the road feeling like a tourist.
We're covering some territory now, that we wouldn't access alone but it means we travel in a minibus as a group and stop at attractions, then move on to the next. Photo opportunities but little interaction with the locals.
Investigated ancient beehive houses believed to be the earliest form of 'house' - the design and form dating from 5000BC. Made of mud, manure and straw and offering excellent insulation from heat and cold. Now just used for storage but some were still occupied until 1960's concrete housing introduced.
Visited the dead cities of Serjillo and Bede. Summer homes of the mesapotamians (sp?) but deserted in 7AD when it is believed earthquakes threatened the area. Now the ruins are surrounded by fertile volcanic farm land and olive and pistachio groves.
We're covering some territory now, that we wouldn't access alone but it means we travel in a minibus as a group and stop at attractions, then move on to the next. Photo opportunities but little interaction with the locals.
Investigated ancient beehive houses believed to be the earliest form of 'house' - the design and form dating from 5000BC. Made of mud, manure and straw and offering excellent insulation from heat and cold. Now just used for storage but some were still occupied until 1960's concrete housing introduced.
Visited the dead cities of Serjillo and Bede. Summer homes of the mesapotamians (sp?) but deserted in 7AD when it is believed earthquakes threatened the area. Now the ruins are surrounded by fertile volcanic farm land and olive and pistachio groves.
10/11 Crac des Chevaliers, Snow, Apemea and Hama...
As we walked up the road this morning, Lebanon's snow capped mountains were on one side and the mediterranean was on the other. Quite a contrast. It was a clear, cool day, warmer than it's been for a couple of days and welcome. We spent the morning exploring C des C castle. The largest and most well preserved of the Crusader castles in the middle east. It's not a particulalry amazing castle as castls go but just the fact that it is here in the mountains of Syria and has survived it fascinating. The church (now mosque) had incredible acoustics and our guide Wahid sang an arabic call to prayer that was quite spine tingling and incredibly melodic and pure.
Long hours in the minibus this afternoon getting to Apemea, an ancient roman city in the middle of fertile Syrian farmland. The main colonaded street is 1 roman mile long, much of it still standing. Only 7% of the site has been excavated and the possibilities are endless - every hillock and bump in the landscape has the potential to be a theatre, bathhouse, temple or other building hidden by centuries of silt. With seeing this, Palmyra and Jerrash, the three give each other perspective and context. The Roman civilisation was all encompassing. The impact and size of Roman citizenship on the middle east seems so much greater than in Britain. Why they bothered with an outpost in isolated Britain is hard to understand the value and strategic ocation of the sites here.
Got into Hama this afternoon. Took a stroll around town to check out the waterwheels, which move the water out of the river into the aquaducts that feed the city's water supply. It was Friday evening and many families were enjoying time together in the city parks and streets. Hama is relatively greener as they have water. Although parks are not as we imagine them - lots of dirt and rubbish and small. From a farmimg point of view the land is much better too - now in the fertile crescent - rich volcanic soil and higher rainfall.
As we walked up the road this morning, Lebanon's snow capped mountains were on one side and the mediterranean was on the other. Quite a contrast. It was a clear, cool day, warmer than it's been for a couple of days and welcome. We spent the morning exploring C des C castle. The largest and most well preserved of the Crusader castles in the middle east. It's not a particulalry amazing castle as castls go but just the fact that it is here in the mountains of Syria and has survived it fascinating. The church (now mosque) had incredible acoustics and our guide Wahid sang an arabic call to prayer that was quite spine tingling and incredibly melodic and pure.
Long hours in the minibus this afternoon getting to Apemea, an ancient roman city in the middle of fertile Syrian farmland. The main colonaded street is 1 roman mile long, much of it still standing. Only 7% of the site has been excavated and the possibilities are endless - every hillock and bump in the landscape has the potential to be a theatre, bathhouse, temple or other building hidden by centuries of silt. With seeing this, Palmyra and Jerrash, the three give each other perspective and context. The Roman civilisation was all encompassing. The impact and size of Roman citizenship on the middle east seems so much greater than in Britain. Why they bothered with an outpost in isolated Britain is hard to understand the value and strategic ocation of the sites here.
Got into Hama this afternoon. Took a stroll around town to check out the waterwheels, which move the water out of the river into the aquaducts that feed the city's water supply. It was Friday evening and many families were enjoying time together in the city parks and streets. Hama is relatively greener as they have water. Although parks are not as we imagine them - lots of dirt and rubbish and small. From a farmimg point of view the land is much better too - now in the fertile crescent - rich volcanic soil and higher rainfall.
8-9 Nov Damascus to Palmyra by public bus.
The Syrian version of Greyhound. 3hrs across the desert highway (cool wind in my hair...not). Very empty. Seeing the cars and building styles, I think there must have been Russian money here at some time. The sight that stuck in my mind - as we came over a sand hill, the highway stretched away to the horizon and to the left and right there were empty sand dunes and flat sandy country of one tone - a dull sandy grey. Empty, except for one large but dwarfed bedouin tent. Alone and stoic in the landscape. A small herd of sheep was being watched by a woman and child and a man was tending a pump by a well. The sun was bright but cold and wind blew sand across the scene. In this one striking moment I understood why family is everything here. Without family you do not exist.
Palmyra has 50,000 residents in summer, swelling to 150,000 in winter when the Bedouin come in from the desert. It is a funny looking town, small and sprawling. Tourism is the main industry but they are struggling due to recent wars and poor business skills. Many families think if they set up a store or build a hotel there will be enough people come to share (heard that before my tourism marketing friends...). It is a very young town with many very young children in the street. It is also the largest oasis I have seen. Acres of date palms, olives & eucalypts in an arc around the city. The built environment itself is very dry. Home gardens and the exteriors of buildings, like everywhere else, are not valued.
Palmyra has many, many, classic cars - mostly mercedes and peugeots - like being in a time warp from the early '60s. They are incredibly battered and have fitted interiors like presian harems - all tassles and velour. But they keep driving. They also drive these amazing three wheeled trucks based on a motorcycle chassis. They have a cab built over the front seat and handle bars that carris 3 people and then the back whell is converted into a tricycle with a ute back - laden with goods. They are painted and decorated like a gypsy caravan (so are most of the trucks and buses). Considering the engine size and load, they are incredible workhorses.
The ancient city of Palmyra dating from approx 2500BC is fascinating. The remains excavated and restored for viewing date from 1-3AD. With the city being continuously occupied until the 1930's (when the people were rehoused in the new city) it has seen many changes, recycling and reuses over history - Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, Christian, Muslim - practical and political. But even the early city shows itself to be uniquely Palmerian as the architects and buildrs had freedom of expression from their masters and were influenced by many styles around them including Greek and Nebatian. It was a huge trading city and many records of goods traded and taxes were found on the site as well as mummies. But interestingly not treasures - these were all removed or plundered earlier.
It has got really cold again, with freezing wind off the desert. Beanie, gloves, even the thermal legs today!
Caught a public minivan to Al-Hosn thisafternoon. Passed within 1km of the Lebanon border and can see the Lebonese mountains as a backdrop. Overnight at Crac Des Chevaliers - great shots of the castle at sunset.
FOOD NOTE: try deep fried egg plant chips and cauliflower roasted in garic and olive oil...
The Syrian version of Greyhound. 3hrs across the desert highway (cool wind in my hair...not). Very empty. Seeing the cars and building styles, I think there must have been Russian money here at some time. The sight that stuck in my mind - as we came over a sand hill, the highway stretched away to the horizon and to the left and right there were empty sand dunes and flat sandy country of one tone - a dull sandy grey. Empty, except for one large but dwarfed bedouin tent. Alone and stoic in the landscape. A small herd of sheep was being watched by a woman and child and a man was tending a pump by a well. The sun was bright but cold and wind blew sand across the scene. In this one striking moment I understood why family is everything here. Without family you do not exist.
Palmyra has 50,000 residents in summer, swelling to 150,000 in winter when the Bedouin come in from the desert. It is a funny looking town, small and sprawling. Tourism is the main industry but they are struggling due to recent wars and poor business skills. Many families think if they set up a store or build a hotel there will be enough people come to share (heard that before my tourism marketing friends...). It is a very young town with many very young children in the street. It is also the largest oasis I have seen. Acres of date palms, olives & eucalypts in an arc around the city. The built environment itself is very dry. Home gardens and the exteriors of buildings, like everywhere else, are not valued.
Palmyra has many, many, classic cars - mostly mercedes and peugeots - like being in a time warp from the early '60s. They are incredibly battered and have fitted interiors like presian harems - all tassles and velour. But they keep driving. They also drive these amazing three wheeled trucks based on a motorcycle chassis. They have a cab built over the front seat and handle bars that carris 3 people and then the back whell is converted into a tricycle with a ute back - laden with goods. They are painted and decorated like a gypsy caravan (so are most of the trucks and buses). Considering the engine size and load, they are incredible workhorses.
The ancient city of Palmyra dating from approx 2500BC is fascinating. The remains excavated and restored for viewing date from 1-3AD. With the city being continuously occupied until the 1930's (when the people were rehoused in the new city) it has seen many changes, recycling and reuses over history - Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, Christian, Muslim - practical and political. But even the early city shows itself to be uniquely Palmerian as the architects and buildrs had freedom of expression from their masters and were influenced by many styles around them including Greek and Nebatian. It was a huge trading city and many records of goods traded and taxes were found on the site as well as mummies. But interestingly not treasures - these were all removed or plundered earlier.
It has got really cold again, with freezing wind off the desert. Beanie, gloves, even the thermal legs today!
Caught a public minivan to Al-Hosn thisafternoon. Passed within 1km of the Lebanon border and can see the Lebonese mountains as a backdrop. Overnight at Crac Des Chevaliers - great shots of the castle at sunset.
FOOD NOTE: try deep fried egg plant chips and cauliflower roasted in garic and olive oil...
Friday, November 10, 2006
6-7/11 Damascus UPDATE
The Souk (or market) HEAVEN. Tried fresh roasted watermelon seeds. Absolutely delicious. Cooked in the big drums like the Brits do horse chestnuts; with oil - probably palm or vegetable, but we could use olive oil and a fry pan; Eat hot! Fantastic! The locals break the kernal out of the seed but I thought they were great whole.
Got mixed nuts and dried fruit; glacied fruit and Syrian chocolates. So fresh. Found those fat double salted roasted pistacios again...mmm...
Stopped at a mosaic box factory and watched them making them. They cut 14" long thin strips of timber into the shapes they need for the pattern, then bind them together into a tight cylinder. This is then soaked in glue. When it is dry further cut strips are bound until it is the correct size for the piece they are creating. The resulting block is then shaved through a saw and the resulting veneers glued to the bloxes, trays, etc. Any mother of pearl is then inlaid and the whole lot sealed. Much easier to show the photos when I get home.
This souk is the first time I have actually shopped since I left home. Got some great pressies. The quality of gear here is amazing. I've dropped the idea of moving to France. Now I'm learning Arabic and starting an import business from Syria. 2 visits a year, filling a container each time with homewares. Retail BNE and CNS.
Shopped...Felt like a kid in a lolly shop. Such a great day. Confident, happy, fun. Bargained like an old hand. Smiled at everyone. up and down the alleys dodging crowds and trollies laden with wares. Got some great bargains. It's like HK 20 years ago. Everyone was so genuinely friendly, helpful, cheeky. No sneaks, or dishonest traders (that I saw). Great people. Women bargaining for fabrics, bridal ware, linen, clothes, intimates, you name it...They fingered and commented on the things I was considering. Locals shoo here. Tourists were rare. Saw only one group all day and two independent travellers while I was trawling the markets. Happy, happy, happy...
In the market I also visited a Khan...where the traders used to live when selling their wares in the souk. Many are still used in this way. They stored their stock, stabled their animals, set up their families, there would be a hammam (bath house), a mosque, a central courtyard with a fountain. All tucked away behind the souk streets. Somewhere to retreat and relax when not trading. They would also invite important clients to the courtyard for entertainment.
Visited an Ottoman period Damascan home. The most amazing carving on every surface. The doors, walls, ceilings, all carved or inlaid and painted the most amazing colours. All geometric, hanging light fittings and soft rich cushions on intricate carved timber furniture. Again, the photos are the only way to demonstrate it...
Visited the Greek Orthadox church of St Paul - where he was reputedly lowered by basket over the Damascan city walls to escape the Jews after his conversion to Christianity. Also visited a Sheite mosque - amazingly decorated with mirrored tiles and chandaliers. All glitter and reflection - very ostentacious compared to the Sunni mosques. We looked like a coven of witches as this sect is much more conservative and we women had to wear a black hooded robe into the mosque not just be covered by our own clothes/scarves. To complete the religious trio of visits we also visited the Umayyad Sunni mosque which is considered the 4th most important mosque in the middle east. A huge complex using the earlier Byzantine church as 25% of it's floor area. The nave of the Byzantine church is now the main prayer hall. Beautiful blue mosaics are used throughout - especially in the large central courtyard. The minnerets are recycled bell towers from the church too.
Dinner tonight was at a restaurant called AlJabri - in an old house with courtyard and fountain from the early 1700's. Restored. Grapevines, painted arches, atmosphere in bucketloads.
The Souk (or market) HEAVEN. Tried fresh roasted watermelon seeds. Absolutely delicious. Cooked in the big drums like the Brits do horse chestnuts; with oil - probably palm or vegetable, but we could use olive oil and a fry pan; Eat hot! Fantastic! The locals break the kernal out of the seed but I thought they were great whole.
Got mixed nuts and dried fruit; glacied fruit and Syrian chocolates. So fresh. Found those fat double salted roasted pistacios again...mmm...
Stopped at a mosaic box factory and watched them making them. They cut 14" long thin strips of timber into the shapes they need for the pattern, then bind them together into a tight cylinder. This is then soaked in glue. When it is dry further cut strips are bound until it is the correct size for the piece they are creating. The resulting block is then shaved through a saw and the resulting veneers glued to the bloxes, trays, etc. Any mother of pearl is then inlaid and the whole lot sealed. Much easier to show the photos when I get home.
This souk is the first time I have actually shopped since I left home. Got some great pressies. The quality of gear here is amazing. I've dropped the idea of moving to France. Now I'm learning Arabic and starting an import business from Syria. 2 visits a year, filling a container each time with homewares. Retail BNE and CNS.
Shopped...Felt like a kid in a lolly shop. Such a great day. Confident, happy, fun. Bargained like an old hand. Smiled at everyone. up and down the alleys dodging crowds and trollies laden with wares. Got some great bargains. It's like HK 20 years ago. Everyone was so genuinely friendly, helpful, cheeky. No sneaks, or dishonest traders (that I saw). Great people. Women bargaining for fabrics, bridal ware, linen, clothes, intimates, you name it...They fingered and commented on the things I was considering. Locals shoo here. Tourists were rare. Saw only one group all day and two independent travellers while I was trawling the markets. Happy, happy, happy...
In the market I also visited a Khan...where the traders used to live when selling their wares in the souk. Many are still used in this way. They stored their stock, stabled their animals, set up their families, there would be a hammam (bath house), a mosque, a central courtyard with a fountain. All tucked away behind the souk streets. Somewhere to retreat and relax when not trading. They would also invite important clients to the courtyard for entertainment.
Visited an Ottoman period Damascan home. The most amazing carving on every surface. The doors, walls, ceilings, all carved or inlaid and painted the most amazing colours. All geometric, hanging light fittings and soft rich cushions on intricate carved timber furniture. Again, the photos are the only way to demonstrate it...
Visited the Greek Orthadox church of St Paul - where he was reputedly lowered by basket over the Damascan city walls to escape the Jews after his conversion to Christianity. Also visited a Sheite mosque - amazingly decorated with mirrored tiles and chandaliers. All glitter and reflection - very ostentacious compared to the Sunni mosques. We looked like a coven of witches as this sect is much more conservative and we women had to wear a black hooded robe into the mosque not just be covered by our own clothes/scarves. To complete the religious trio of visits we also visited the Umayyad Sunni mosque which is considered the 4th most important mosque in the middle east. A huge complex using the earlier Byzantine church as 25% of it's floor area. The nave of the Byzantine church is now the main prayer hall. Beautiful blue mosaics are used throughout - especially in the large central courtyard. The minnerets are recycled bell towers from the church too.
Dinner tonight was at a restaurant called AlJabri - in an old house with courtyard and fountain from the early 1700's. Restored. Grapevines, painted arches, atmosphere in bucketloads.
6/11 Sorry getting tired and this will be a short entry...
Travelled from Jordon to Syria today. Spent plenty of the day mucking around dealing with border formalities and beauracracy. Arrived in Damascus late in the afternoon. The entry and new city is industrial, dirty and ugly but the old city is beautiful.
At the border crossing watched a guy makng fresh flaffel with a special tool which would also make great biscuits and icecream scoops. Bought a couple in the souk to bring home and try...
Finished a long day with a fantastic meal at a top resturant called Leilas. Setting, lights, upholstery, atmosphere, all magnificant. In a restored courtyard house.
Try a new mocktail - Minted lemon juice - fresh lemon juice, mint leaves, sugar and crushed ice in the blender. Sieve out the mint fibre and unmelted ice. Serve in a tall glass with fresh mint sprig on top. Amazing - and on a hot tropical day would be perfect. Remember to watch the sugar - they like it sweet but I prefer bitter.
Travelled from Jordon to Syria today. Spent plenty of the day mucking around dealing with border formalities and beauracracy. Arrived in Damascus late in the afternoon. The entry and new city is industrial, dirty and ugly but the old city is beautiful.
At the border crossing watched a guy makng fresh flaffel with a special tool which would also make great biscuits and icecream scoops. Bought a couple in the souk to bring home and try...
Finished a long day with a fantastic meal at a top resturant called Leilas. Setting, lights, upholstery, atmosphere, all magnificant. In a restored courtyard house.
Try a new mocktail - Minted lemon juice - fresh lemon juice, mint leaves, sugar and crushed ice in the blender. Sieve out the mint fibre and unmelted ice. Serve in a tall glass with fresh mint sprig on top. Amazing - and on a hot tropical day would be perfect. Remember to watch the sugar - they like it sweet but I prefer bitter.
5/11 Visit to a Palastian Refugee Camp
We wandered up and down narrow, grubby streets lined with the same concrete or concrete block houses we see everywhere in our minibus taxi. Finally, we seemed to find our address but I'm not sure how. We were ushered into the front hall of a two story house with the steel reinforcing stretching out of the concrete corner pillars into the sky. Like everyone, each family hopes to build another story to house the next generation.
The Palastinian family we visited had fled Palastine in the 1967 war to Germany. The grandmother and grandfather marrying there and moving to Jordon 20 years later so they had a better chance of returning to their homeland should the trouble ever be over. Of course they began a family and had 4 children while in exile. One son and daughter still live in the home with them. The daughter with her husband and 2 small children. The older generation still consider themselves Palastinian, the middle generation straddle the two worlds and the children/grandchildren (about 12 by the look of the number of babies through to teenagers hanging round the house for grandma to look after while their parents worked in Amman)consider themselves Jordanian. They all have Jordanian citizenship, grandad owns the house, but the area is still considered a refugee camp. They are not well off - downstairs had 4 rooms - small bathroom and kitchen and two rooms - formal living room (like an English parlour for receiving and entertaining guests) and a bedroom where everyone slept, the kids watched TV and the women socialised during the day. The matresses were stacked in an open cupboard through the day with a couple left out for sitting on. There was another floor upstairs, identical, that their unmarried son lived in. I got the impression the daughters family lived dowstairs with the grandparents. The grandma did all the housework, cooking, cleaning, washing and childcare and the daughter helped when she got home from Amman. The daughter did the shopping. The younger men worked in factories and granddad was retired. They were saving up for a computer (about JOD500) to help the kids with their schooling. We sat in the front room with the men until I asked could the visiting women please meet the women of the house.This was agreed and 3 of us went to the back room to speak with the grandma. It was very difficult as they spoke very little english. But they spoke good german and one of our group spoke passable german so we translated through her. The biggest shock was seeing a 'camp' that was a suburb of Medaba - 45,000 residents. And that after 40years they still hoped to go 'home'. A very interesting afternoon.
We wandered up and down narrow, grubby streets lined with the same concrete or concrete block houses we see everywhere in our minibus taxi. Finally, we seemed to find our address but I'm not sure how. We were ushered into the front hall of a two story house with the steel reinforcing stretching out of the concrete corner pillars into the sky. Like everyone, each family hopes to build another story to house the next generation.
The Palastinian family we visited had fled Palastine in the 1967 war to Germany. The grandmother and grandfather marrying there and moving to Jordon 20 years later so they had a better chance of returning to their homeland should the trouble ever be over. Of course they began a family and had 4 children while in exile. One son and daughter still live in the home with them. The daughter with her husband and 2 small children. The older generation still consider themselves Palastinian, the middle generation straddle the two worlds and the children/grandchildren (about 12 by the look of the number of babies through to teenagers hanging round the house for grandma to look after while their parents worked in Amman)consider themselves Jordanian. They all have Jordanian citizenship, grandad owns the house, but the area is still considered a refugee camp. They are not well off - downstairs had 4 rooms - small bathroom and kitchen and two rooms - formal living room (like an English parlour for receiving and entertaining guests) and a bedroom where everyone slept, the kids watched TV and the women socialised during the day. The matresses were stacked in an open cupboard through the day with a couple left out for sitting on. There was another floor upstairs, identical, that their unmarried son lived in. I got the impression the daughters family lived dowstairs with the grandparents. The grandma did all the housework, cooking, cleaning, washing and childcare and the daughter helped when she got home from Amman. The daughter did the shopping. The younger men worked in factories and granddad was retired. They were saving up for a computer (about JOD500) to help the kids with their schooling. We sat in the front room with the men until I asked could the visiting women please meet the women of the house.This was agreed and 3 of us went to the back room to speak with the grandma. It was very difficult as they spoke very little english. But they spoke good german and one of our group spoke passable german so we translated through her. The biggest shock was seeing a 'camp' that was a suburb of Medaba - 45,000 residents. And that after 40years they still hoped to go 'home'. A very interesting afternoon.
5/11 Medaba Mosaics
Ok, it is officially COLD again. Sorry, make that freezing. Full moon tonight poking through green clouds - yes, green snow laden clouds...If it made 8 degrees today, I think I would be being generous. Wet, with a sneaky breeze. Two layers no longer enough. Beanie and gloves out and on. Extra thermals on standby. There is snow in Istanbul we have been told, and we're not there yet. If it is going to snow, I hope it does a good job so at least the countryside is pretty.
Spent the morning today exploring the 7th century mosaics in the museum and churches. Fascinating. Unforunately they are not well maintained and much of the beautiful colour is hidden under layers of dirt. The rain was good - washing them and wetting the stones to reveal and enhance the colours. These mosaics are made of small pieces of natural coloured stone - not glass or earthenware, so they do not fade. Amazinf variations of white, cream, pink, red, brown, grey, black combined tyo enhance lines, shadows, give depth and dimension. True artisans. We watched a modern mosaic maker but nowhere near as good as the original.
The mosaic map in the Greek Othadox Church of St George is the most fascinating. The church was built over the 7th century remains to protect and manage it. The original mosaic was huge and not a lot remains - maybe 30%. But it was considered one of the most valuable finds of it's time. It is a geographical map f Egypt, Sinai, and the whole middle east in incredible detail. Extremely accurate with rivers, towns, wadis, seas - all marked. It located previously lost cities for it's modern day discoverers.
Ok, it is officially COLD again. Sorry, make that freezing. Full moon tonight poking through green clouds - yes, green snow laden clouds...If it made 8 degrees today, I think I would be being generous. Wet, with a sneaky breeze. Two layers no longer enough. Beanie and gloves out and on. Extra thermals on standby. There is snow in Istanbul we have been told, and we're not there yet. If it is going to snow, I hope it does a good job so at least the countryside is pretty.
Spent the morning today exploring the 7th century mosaics in the museum and churches. Fascinating. Unforunately they are not well maintained and much of the beautiful colour is hidden under layers of dirt. The rain was good - washing them and wetting the stones to reveal and enhance the colours. These mosaics are made of small pieces of natural coloured stone - not glass or earthenware, so they do not fade. Amazinf variations of white, cream, pink, red, brown, grey, black combined tyo enhance lines, shadows, give depth and dimension. True artisans. We watched a modern mosaic maker but nowhere near as good as the original.
The mosaic map in the Greek Othadox Church of St George is the most fascinating. The church was built over the 7th century remains to protect and manage it. The original mosaic was huge and not a lot remains - maybe 30%. But it was considered one of the most valuable finds of it's time. It is a geographical map f Egypt, Sinai, and the whole middle east in incredible detail. Extremely accurate with rivers, towns, wadis, seas - all marked. It located previously lost cities for it's modern day discoverers.
4/11 Long Day, Long Roads...
Left Petra early (7.30am) and drove right through to Krak Castle. This left me cold. I've seen much better castles, with better guides and info. Maybe it was just me. The guide was a camera freak wanting to know the brands of everyone's cameras and wanting us to take pictures contsantly of things we didn't think worthy. He even took the camera off some of the group. Weird guy - lucky we knew how to laugh...
Stopped at a (Jordanian version of a) truck stop for lunch. The others had what looked like very interesting spinach stuffed toasted pita. I've been very careful with food if there is no toilet in sight so stuck to boiled egg and pita snaffled from breakfast. There was a bakehouse at the truck stop and they were baking pita. Very interesting. The pita dough balls were run through a roller and came out looking like pizza bases - one guy fed them through, another caught them and threw them onto a wooden tray - 6 to a tray. Another guy would then throw them into a wood fired oven. As they cooked the air caught inside expanded and puffed them up - which is why they have pockets when you buy them. The 4th guy stacked the cooked fresh pita bread in piles for selling. One of our group was taking photos and was offered a turn at catching the dough out of the roller and throwing it onto the wiiden trays. It looks easy til you try - he made a complete hash of it - dropping two and crushing the others with clumsy catches. Very, very hard in real life!
Next stop today was The Dead Sea - Highlight of my day. We had a swim. You had to walk out through the mud into the deeper water - sometimes calf deep. This mud is reportedly thereputic. It cvertainly stuck, smelt and stung...Once you were out in the deeper water the bouyancy was incredible. You can stand upright and float - no treading water - or lie on your back with your whole body out of the water. 30% salt and getting saltier by the day. The wadis that feed the sea are being dammed and only 10% of what traditionally fed it now enters. They are rtying to find a way to replenish the sea from either the Mediterannean or Rea Sea but current political unrest is stopping this. They think The Dead Sea will be be dry in as little as 40years wth current evaporation rates. Nothing lives in it and it tastes disgusting. The salt is so strong it stings any cuts or scratches like they were fresh and will corrode the alloy in jewellery.
We went from 1200m above sea level this morning to 300m below sea level (dead sea) to 900m above - finishing the day's sightseeing at Mt Nebo where Moses was shown the promised land by God. Great view across the Dead Sea to Isreal and the West Bank. Finished the day at a little town called Medaba - outside Amman. Not going to Amman as the traffic is so bad you never get to see the attractions in available time.
Had an amazing dinner at the 'Best Restaurant in Jordon' Haret Jdoudna - which loosely translated means "Street of the Ancestors". "Stole" a menu - just have tot ry the mezzes out at home - mushrooms braised in garlic and stuffed with haloumi...
Left Petra early (7.30am) and drove right through to Krak Castle. This left me cold. I've seen much better castles, with better guides and info. Maybe it was just me. The guide was a camera freak wanting to know the brands of everyone's cameras and wanting us to take pictures contsantly of things we didn't think worthy. He even took the camera off some of the group. Weird guy - lucky we knew how to laugh...
Stopped at a (Jordanian version of a) truck stop for lunch. The others had what looked like very interesting spinach stuffed toasted pita. I've been very careful with food if there is no toilet in sight so stuck to boiled egg and pita snaffled from breakfast. There was a bakehouse at the truck stop and they were baking pita. Very interesting. The pita dough balls were run through a roller and came out looking like pizza bases - one guy fed them through, another caught them and threw them onto a wooden tray - 6 to a tray. Another guy would then throw them into a wood fired oven. As they cooked the air caught inside expanded and puffed them up - which is why they have pockets when you buy them. The 4th guy stacked the cooked fresh pita bread in piles for selling. One of our group was taking photos and was offered a turn at catching the dough out of the roller and throwing it onto the wiiden trays. It looks easy til you try - he made a complete hash of it - dropping two and crushing the others with clumsy catches. Very, very hard in real life!
Next stop today was The Dead Sea - Highlight of my day. We had a swim. You had to walk out through the mud into the deeper water - sometimes calf deep. This mud is reportedly thereputic. It cvertainly stuck, smelt and stung...Once you were out in the deeper water the bouyancy was incredible. You can stand upright and float - no treading water - or lie on your back with your whole body out of the water. 30% salt and getting saltier by the day. The wadis that feed the sea are being dammed and only 10% of what traditionally fed it now enters. They are rtying to find a way to replenish the sea from either the Mediterannean or Rea Sea but current political unrest is stopping this. They think The Dead Sea will be be dry in as little as 40years wth current evaporation rates. Nothing lives in it and it tastes disgusting. The salt is so strong it stings any cuts or scratches like they were fresh and will corrode the alloy in jewellery.
We went from 1200m above sea level this morning to 300m below sea level (dead sea) to 900m above - finishing the day's sightseeing at Mt Nebo where Moses was shown the promised land by God. Great view across the Dead Sea to Isreal and the West Bank. Finished the day at a little town called Medaba - outside Amman. Not going to Amman as the traffic is so bad you never get to see the attractions in available time.
Had an amazing dinner at the 'Best Restaurant in Jordon' Haret Jdoudna - which loosely translated means "Street of the Ancestors". "Stole" a menu - just have tot ry the mezzes out at home - mushrooms braised in garlic and stuffed with haloumi...
Wednesday, November 08, 2006
Petra Food
We had some amazing food while in Petra. The local tourism family - ran the 4WD tours to Wadi Rum, Dead Sea, etc; ran the Hotel we stayed in; ran a travel agency; etc. Anyway one of the brothers was the chef at the hotel (another was Ogla our head guide in Wadi Rum).
Obviously we had babganoush, hommus and pita but we also had tabouli and some amazing natural yogurt with local honey - oh boy - as good as the yummy Rusty's one you buy Jaimelle and better than King Island Mark!
Try some of these and see if you can make them work at home...
1. Wash egg plant and slice into 1-1 1/2" pieces, spray with olive oil and lightly grill to seal. Lay the egg plant slices in a greased baking tray and roast like pumpkin. In the meantime, cook chopped tomatoes and garlic in a olive oil greased pan until soft. When the egg plant is roasted put the tomato mix on top of the egg plant in the baking dish. Return to oven for 10 minutes to make sure starting to absorb flavours through both parts. Serve hot as vege or as entree on it's own. Fantastic!
2. New Dukkah for the dukkah fans. Mix seseame seeds with course ground sage. dunk toasted pita in olive oil and then scoop through the seseame dukkah. mmm...
3. Black tea with fresh sage sprig. sweeten to taste. I prefer the mint spring but the sage is interesting and different.
4. Mousata - I think that's what you call it. Like a risotto with rice slow cooked in chicken stock, garlic, onion, parsley and sage. Chicken browned with garlic and then steamed on top of the slow cooking rice sprinkled with a new spice - sumac - a bit like paprika.
We had some amazing food while in Petra. The local tourism family - ran the 4WD tours to Wadi Rum, Dead Sea, etc; ran the Hotel we stayed in; ran a travel agency; etc. Anyway one of the brothers was the chef at the hotel (another was Ogla our head guide in Wadi Rum).
Obviously we had babganoush, hommus and pita but we also had tabouli and some amazing natural yogurt with local honey - oh boy - as good as the yummy Rusty's one you buy Jaimelle and better than King Island Mark!
Try some of these and see if you can make them work at home...
1. Wash egg plant and slice into 1-1 1/2" pieces, spray with olive oil and lightly grill to seal. Lay the egg plant slices in a greased baking tray and roast like pumpkin. In the meantime, cook chopped tomatoes and garlic in a olive oil greased pan until soft. When the egg plant is roasted put the tomato mix on top of the egg plant in the baking dish. Return to oven for 10 minutes to make sure starting to absorb flavours through both parts. Serve hot as vege or as entree on it's own. Fantastic!
2. New Dukkah for the dukkah fans. Mix seseame seeds with course ground sage. dunk toasted pita in olive oil and then scoop through the seseame dukkah. mmm...
3. Black tea with fresh sage sprig. sweeten to taste. I prefer the mint spring but the sage is interesting and different.
4. Mousata - I think that's what you call it. Like a risotto with rice slow cooked in chicken stock, garlic, onion, parsley and sage. Chicken browned with garlic and then steamed on top of the slow cooking rice sprinkled with a new spice - sumac - a bit like paprika.
2-3 November 2006 Petra, Oh my...
The walk down the Suk to accesst he ancient valley city of Petra will stay with me as one of the 10 great experiences of my life. I don't know what the other 9 are right now but even the city itself did not strike my soul as that canyon gorge did. I walked the canyon 4 times - 2 down and 2 back - 4 different times of the day and every time was in a different light and very special. The narrow Chasm winds down about 1km before opeing up in front of The Treasury. It's sides have been huen by wind and water over centuries, towering at least 10 stories above me. In some places the path is just 2m wide, at others it opens out to about 5m. The rock colours constanly change and are almost impossible to capture on camera. The colours are those of the desert, polished and reflecting the sun. It struck me that although the walls could be in shade, or even the day quite cold, the rock still radiated warmth.
On Thursday afternoon the group hired a guide (Harvi) and spent a few hours with him getting a perspective, some history and a plan together for exploring alone the next day. They say it takes a week to explore the city properly, but I think we did well to spend 1 1/2 days. Bythe end of Friday I was knackered. I reckon I walked about 18km over the two days, exploring all sorts of excavations, dwellings, outlooks and gullies. The two best preserved facades (there is very little actually behind them in the mountain itself - no deeper than about 5m) are The Treasury at the beginning and The Monastary at the end - about 3km and a steep climb apart. There are all sorts of less preserved or more weathered tombs, homes, buildings, etc from various periods to explore. The location has been important throughout history. An early Christian church has been found with beautiful mosaic floors; there is a Roman/Greek 'town hall'; a crusaider castle ruin; etc. The Bedouin lived in the caves and ruins until very recently. The Jordanian Government built them a community a few km away in the early 1990's and no-one is allowed to love in the city now. The Bedouin come every day to trade and run businesses in the city for tourists.
We all met different and very interesting Bedouin people as we explored and collected tales that were shared over dinner. There was a young man wit ha strong Kiwi accent selling his mums autobiography "Married to a Bedouin". As a young Kiwi she visited Petra in 1976, met and fell in love with her Bedouin husband and lived in the caves of Petra with him, raising 3 children. He died in 2002 and so she wrote a book of their lives together. You may be able to get the book in Oz if you are interested.
I also met some great young kids and teenagers. All working in their family businesses either selling trinkets or donkey rides. Being Friday (the Muslim Sabbath) there were lots of kids. Two young ladies asked me to join them for Bedouim tea in their trinket stand. We shared tea and some fresh nuts I was carrying. They were both 18 - friends - each from big families helping keep food on the table. They said they often only took home JD5 for a days selling (about AUD10) but they said it was more important to be happy in your soul than to make a lot of money.
One old guy guided me up to the crusaider castle and made sure I got the right path down. Great views off the top of Petra and the surrounding countryside. And when I was wandering between two sites across some open scrubby country, a young girl of about 9 called out across a deep gully and with signs indicated a better path for me to cross the gully and guided me across and out. I wish I had thought to take her picture - she was a very cute kid and very kind, in a multicoloured long shift with a thick black curly plait down her back (reminded me of Joseph and his technicolour dream coat). All these people just wanted to share the company of other people. A thoroughly enjoyable day.
The walk down the Suk to accesst he ancient valley city of Petra will stay with me as one of the 10 great experiences of my life. I don't know what the other 9 are right now but even the city itself did not strike my soul as that canyon gorge did. I walked the canyon 4 times - 2 down and 2 back - 4 different times of the day and every time was in a different light and very special. The narrow Chasm winds down about 1km before opeing up in front of The Treasury. It's sides have been huen by wind and water over centuries, towering at least 10 stories above me. In some places the path is just 2m wide, at others it opens out to about 5m. The rock colours constanly change and are almost impossible to capture on camera. The colours are those of the desert, polished and reflecting the sun. It struck me that although the walls could be in shade, or even the day quite cold, the rock still radiated warmth.
On Thursday afternoon the group hired a guide (Harvi) and spent a few hours with him getting a perspective, some history and a plan together for exploring alone the next day. They say it takes a week to explore the city properly, but I think we did well to spend 1 1/2 days. Bythe end of Friday I was knackered. I reckon I walked about 18km over the two days, exploring all sorts of excavations, dwellings, outlooks and gullies. The two best preserved facades (there is very little actually behind them in the mountain itself - no deeper than about 5m) are The Treasury at the beginning and The Monastary at the end - about 3km and a steep climb apart. There are all sorts of less preserved or more weathered tombs, homes, buildings, etc from various periods to explore. The location has been important throughout history. An early Christian church has been found with beautiful mosaic floors; there is a Roman/Greek 'town hall'; a crusaider castle ruin; etc. The Bedouin lived in the caves and ruins until very recently. The Jordanian Government built them a community a few km away in the early 1990's and no-one is allowed to love in the city now. The Bedouin come every day to trade and run businesses in the city for tourists.
We all met different and very interesting Bedouin people as we explored and collected tales that were shared over dinner. There was a young man wit ha strong Kiwi accent selling his mums autobiography "Married to a Bedouin". As a young Kiwi she visited Petra in 1976, met and fell in love with her Bedouin husband and lived in the caves of Petra with him, raising 3 children. He died in 2002 and so she wrote a book of their lives together. You may be able to get the book in Oz if you are interested.
I also met some great young kids and teenagers. All working in their family businesses either selling trinkets or donkey rides. Being Friday (the Muslim Sabbath) there were lots of kids. Two young ladies asked me to join them for Bedouim tea in their trinket stand. We shared tea and some fresh nuts I was carrying. They were both 18 - friends - each from big families helping keep food on the table. They said they often only took home JD5 for a days selling (about AUD10) but they said it was more important to be happy in your soul than to make a lot of money.
One old guy guided me up to the crusaider castle and made sure I got the right path down. Great views off the top of Petra and the surrounding countryside. And when I was wandering between two sites across some open scrubby country, a young girl of about 9 called out across a deep gully and with signs indicated a better path for me to cross the gully and guided me across and out. I wish I had thought to take her picture - she was a very cute kid and very kind, in a multicoloured long shift with a thick black curly plait down her back (reminded me of Joseph and his technicolour dream coat). All these people just wanted to share the company of other people. A thoroughly enjoyable day.
Tuesday, November 07, 2006
Forgive me, it has been a week since my last post...
1-2/11/06 Wadi Rum
Oh, no...first case of Jordon Jollies. Knew things weren't right straight after dinner. Had a terrible night, hot sweats, growling tummy, and the rest...At least I've been there - done that now and should be safe...HINDSIGHT...yeah right...1 week later and still only tasting the cuisine delights rather than pigging in...at least I'm not getting fat...
Very shabby day for me heading into the desert, but dosed up on Immodium and panadol and just did as little as possible. We headed out in 2 4WDs with thoroughly modern Bedouin guides - western clothes, great English. And Ogla the head guide was easy on the eye too...
SPECIAL NOTE...My early impression of the Jordanian people is they are very westernised, contemporary, glamorous people. Open, relatively wealthy and healthy. They have no need to rip you off economically. Their women are generally better looking, less obese and more well presented than their Egyptian counterparts. The men take more pride in their appearance and dress. They are cleaner. Even if they are touts, 1 La Shokrun(no thank you) is enough and shop keepers are very helpful and honest. There have been no inappropriate approaches, lewd comments, etc. Very, very nice people.
Anyway back to the desert. We spent the day 4WDing around the easily accessible sights of this amazing desert country. All the Bedouin of Wadi Rum (now a National Park) have been moved by the goivernment into a purpose built community of the same name. They can still use the land to farm traditionally (goats, camels, etc) but cannot live there now, as I understand it. Only a small part of the NP is accessible to tourists. We visited gorges, 1300yr old rock art of camels and desert wars, a natural rock bridge, huge red sand dunes (yes, red again now). The best part of my day was when our guide did some adrenalin pumping speed 4WDing over some sand dunes. Ye-hah! Most of the other activities involved a fair bit of climbing which I wasn't up to but watched the others.
We arrived at the Bedouin camp about 4pm. Just in time to set up camp (well, lay out sleeping bags) before watching the sun set and the mountains change colour through gold, to bronze, to red and finally violet and black.
The camp was two huge rectanglular tents made of woven goat/camel/sheep wool. Each one about the size of a large semi-trailer dog. Inside, the floor was woven mats. In the sleeping tent there was a pile of mattresses and blankets to pull out. The dining tent had a long low table down the centre with cushions as seats.
Dinner was cooked in a huge, but very flash, camp oven. They dug a pit deep enough to hold a drum about 2ft deep and 18" diameter. In the bottom of the drum they put a thick layer of coals (prepared earlier). They then used a contraption similar to a multi-layer tea cake server with mesh trays welded on four verticle rods or legs. Veges were laden on the bottom layer and meats on the top layer. This was then slid into the drum. The legs kept the bottom layer off the coals. A domed camp oven lid was placed on the top of the drum and coals and hot sand pile over the lid to seal the heat in. It was left for about 2 hours. The meats basted the veges. The meat and vege was served with spiced rice and pita. HINDSIGHT: ALL meals are served with bread - usually Pita. I had a taste. All excellent. Tender and flavoursome. The best were the whole roasted spanish onions in their outer skins. You just pressed them out of the outer skin layer (like we roast garlic) - brilliant.
We sat around the camp fire (very small as wood is at a premium in the desert) after dinner with mint tea and hubble bubble (local name for Sheisha - water tobacco pipe). As it is dark by 5pm, it felt quite late by 8pm and a few of us crashed early. There was some traditional Bedouin singing too - the Bedouin version of Ross' campfire show.
Our host Said was hilarious, telling us he was looking for a second wife (actually that bit was true). While he was serious, he also knew it would get a reaction from us. We had a great time negotiating camels, conditions and expectations with him. When he discovered one of our group actually filled his age requirement (25yo - he is 44yo) it got even more hilarious - and no we didn't sell her - Kate is still very much a single, blonde Kiwi heading home to a job in the diplomatic service.
All awake with the sun and not long after the campfire was re-lit and the tea on. Sarah, you would love the tea - strong black with so much sugar you could stand the spoon in it. The sugar is brewed in the pot with the tea. As a result it is quite a thick brew. HINDSIGHT coffee in Egypt, Jordon and Syria has been very poor (unless it is Turkish and even then they dont always get it right) but they do good tea. I have taken on tea and now quite like it. Black and unsweetened. I think it was the milk that made it taste yukky for me. They also do great fresh fruit juices - thick, fresh and tasty.
Back to the dawn...As first up I was lucky to have the dawn to myself. Incredibly quiet and still. No noise at all. No crickets, birds, dogs, lizards. In fact the silence was thick like a blanket and piercing into your soul. It made you take notice of yourself, your context in this landscape and your surroundings. The light early in the day was gentle, but also, it didn't take long to warm the earth and remind you of the strongest force in the desert - the heat. Unfortunately we had a 1/2 moon the night before which made it quite hard to see the stars; but the sky was as good as an Undara or Glenwood night.
Straight after breakfast we headed back to the Wadi Rum village to pump up the tyres and rejoin the highway to Petra. A scene caught my eye as we waited on the outskirts of the village. The day was still early - maybe 8am - and across the foreground of huts and rubbish and camels and human habitation, the background of the Wadi was still immense and powerful. Out into the expanse of sand, out into the peace of mother nature, walked a man. Dressed traditionally he slid across the landscape, stopping only when he was well away from the bustling morning. He then started to do some stretches and what I suppose is a local form of tai-chi. He was unexpected but belonged.
1-2/11/06 Wadi Rum
Oh, no...first case of Jordon Jollies. Knew things weren't right straight after dinner. Had a terrible night, hot sweats, growling tummy, and the rest...At least I've been there - done that now and should be safe...HINDSIGHT...yeah right...1 week later and still only tasting the cuisine delights rather than pigging in...at least I'm not getting fat...
Very shabby day for me heading into the desert, but dosed up on Immodium and panadol and just did as little as possible. We headed out in 2 4WDs with thoroughly modern Bedouin guides - western clothes, great English. And Ogla the head guide was easy on the eye too...
SPECIAL NOTE...My early impression of the Jordanian people is they are very westernised, contemporary, glamorous people. Open, relatively wealthy and healthy. They have no need to rip you off economically. Their women are generally better looking, less obese and more well presented than their Egyptian counterparts. The men take more pride in their appearance and dress. They are cleaner. Even if they are touts, 1 La Shokrun(no thank you) is enough and shop keepers are very helpful and honest. There have been no inappropriate approaches, lewd comments, etc. Very, very nice people.
Anyway back to the desert. We spent the day 4WDing around the easily accessible sights of this amazing desert country. All the Bedouin of Wadi Rum (now a National Park) have been moved by the goivernment into a purpose built community of the same name. They can still use the land to farm traditionally (goats, camels, etc) but cannot live there now, as I understand it. Only a small part of the NP is accessible to tourists. We visited gorges, 1300yr old rock art of camels and desert wars, a natural rock bridge, huge red sand dunes (yes, red again now). The best part of my day was when our guide did some adrenalin pumping speed 4WDing over some sand dunes. Ye-hah! Most of the other activities involved a fair bit of climbing which I wasn't up to but watched the others.
We arrived at the Bedouin camp about 4pm. Just in time to set up camp (well, lay out sleeping bags) before watching the sun set and the mountains change colour through gold, to bronze, to red and finally violet and black.
The camp was two huge rectanglular tents made of woven goat/camel/sheep wool. Each one about the size of a large semi-trailer dog. Inside, the floor was woven mats. In the sleeping tent there was a pile of mattresses and blankets to pull out. The dining tent had a long low table down the centre with cushions as seats.
Dinner was cooked in a huge, but very flash, camp oven. They dug a pit deep enough to hold a drum about 2ft deep and 18" diameter. In the bottom of the drum they put a thick layer of coals (prepared earlier). They then used a contraption similar to a multi-layer tea cake server with mesh trays welded on four verticle rods or legs. Veges were laden on the bottom layer and meats on the top layer. This was then slid into the drum. The legs kept the bottom layer off the coals. A domed camp oven lid was placed on the top of the drum and coals and hot sand pile over the lid to seal the heat in. It was left for about 2 hours. The meats basted the veges. The meat and vege was served with spiced rice and pita. HINDSIGHT: ALL meals are served with bread - usually Pita. I had a taste. All excellent. Tender and flavoursome. The best were the whole roasted spanish onions in their outer skins. You just pressed them out of the outer skin layer (like we roast garlic) - brilliant.
We sat around the camp fire (very small as wood is at a premium in the desert) after dinner with mint tea and hubble bubble (local name for Sheisha - water tobacco pipe). As it is dark by 5pm, it felt quite late by 8pm and a few of us crashed early. There was some traditional Bedouin singing too - the Bedouin version of Ross' campfire show.
Our host Said was hilarious, telling us he was looking for a second wife (actually that bit was true). While he was serious, he also knew it would get a reaction from us. We had a great time negotiating camels, conditions and expectations with him. When he discovered one of our group actually filled his age requirement (25yo - he is 44yo) it got even more hilarious - and no we didn't sell her - Kate is still very much a single, blonde Kiwi heading home to a job in the diplomatic service.
All awake with the sun and not long after the campfire was re-lit and the tea on. Sarah, you would love the tea - strong black with so much sugar you could stand the spoon in it. The sugar is brewed in the pot with the tea. As a result it is quite a thick brew. HINDSIGHT coffee in Egypt, Jordon and Syria has been very poor (unless it is Turkish and even then they dont always get it right) but they do good tea. I have taken on tea and now quite like it. Black and unsweetened. I think it was the milk that made it taste yukky for me. They also do great fresh fruit juices - thick, fresh and tasty.
Back to the dawn...As first up I was lucky to have the dawn to myself. Incredibly quiet and still. No noise at all. No crickets, birds, dogs, lizards. In fact the silence was thick like a blanket and piercing into your soul. It made you take notice of yourself, your context in this landscape and your surroundings. The light early in the day was gentle, but also, it didn't take long to warm the earth and remind you of the strongest force in the desert - the heat. Unfortunately we had a 1/2 moon the night before which made it quite hard to see the stars; but the sky was as good as an Undara or Glenwood night.
Straight after breakfast we headed back to the Wadi Rum village to pump up the tyres and rejoin the highway to Petra. A scene caught my eye as we waited on the outskirts of the village. The day was still early - maybe 8am - and across the foreground of huts and rubbish and camels and human habitation, the background of the Wadi was still immense and powerful. Out into the expanse of sand, out into the peace of mother nature, walked a man. Dressed traditionally he slid across the landscape, stopping only when he was well away from the bustling morning. He then started to do some stretches and what I suppose is a local form of tai-chi. He was unexpected but belonged.
